Narrow canal, lots and lots of duckweed on the surface, and our bowsprit in the Great Dismal Swamp...
HP Does the Dismal
Who woulda’ thunk it? We never, ever planned on doing the Great Dismal Swamp Route. In fact, in all of our books we have it X’d out and TOO SHALLOW written beside it. As I write this we’re at the free dock at the North Carolina Welcome Center most of the way through the canal. It is a very rewarding experience to say the least.
This morning we awoke at the Deep Creek Basin aka “Hole-in-the-Wall” a man-made basin with 8-10’ at the entrance and 15-20’ inside the basin. It now ranks as one of our favorite anchoring spots yet. Secluded, beautiful, no man-made lighting; It was spectacular. The anchor came up at 0815 and we were at the Deep Creek Lock by 0840. They said they would open up at 0845 to let boats in but they opened at 0905...which meant we held position in a very narrow, very shallow spot for 20 minutes, no big deal but we were already anxious to begin the journey…and Deep Creek Lock is where it all begins.
The lock-master blows a conch shell as all the boats pull in, all 4 of us. Going up and down 8 feet is a minor lock in comparison to some out there...
Even though they say that the controlling depth in the Dismal Swamp canal is 6 feet (we draw 5 ˝) we saw very few spots under 7-9’. The canal is narrow enough that two boats could pass if they were both careful…that’s it. Probably 50 foot wide from shore to shore and the cypress trees and cypress stumps (dragon’s teeth) are poking out of the water everywhere. The only downside are submerged logs. We had 3 bumps and one THUMP! The bumps were minor, the THUMP made out collective pulse do the same thing., thump, that is. No damage done, just a loud log against the hull/keel.
We kept a slow speed to make the most of the trip…our evening stop was the North Carolina Welcome Center at mile 28 (Mile 0 is the ICW is in Norfolk) the Dismal Swamp begins at mile 8 or so. The Welcome Center is truly the Welcome Center…a highway rest stop with dock space for 3 boats and they raft off from there. We were rafted on the outside, quite a comfortable spot… and free.
We always read about the wildlife in the Great Dismal...we saw 6 turtles on 3 logs. Actually, it was 2 turtles on one log seen thrice. We had a spider that rode along with us, and a fish jumped. Therein lies the extent of the National Geographic section of the Canal.
That was yesterday. Today we awoke at the Visitor Center and got underway about 0815 and had 4 miles to go before the second lock to exit the canal. Very easy run through the remainder of the canal and into the Pasquatank River. By 1:00 we were tied up at the free dock in Elizabeth City. We’ve heard so many stories about the friendliness of the city…it has certainly lived up to its reputation. We are wedged in on the seawall and have already been greeted by a large number of locals…offering rides, directions, whatever necessary. The waterfront is certainly the ‘place to be’ in Elizabeth City. We are at Mile 50.
We’ll run south to Beaufort, NC…back through familiar territory and offshore to Florida.
All said and done, we’ve slain yet another dragon. Our anxiety level had been quite high over the thought of the Dismal Swamp…and having survived we can say without a doubt that this bit of worry, like most, was built up more in our heads than it was in reality. We’ve passed several personal milestones and are beaming with pride at having completed this bit of the journey.
At 4:30 this afternoon (and every afternoon there are more than 4 boats) the city holds a wine and cheese party for the boaters…so we will reward ourselves.
We will be here a day or so, get some repairs and maintenance done and be off again. Across Albermarle Sound, through the Alligator/Pungo Canal (A&P) and then back to Belhaven, NC to do laundry.
I changed engine and transmission zincs today, cleaned our engine strainer which was full of much and duckweed from the canal, and helped another cruiser pull his transmission which went out on the way here... he has the same Borg-Warner Velvet Dive as we have so I am glad to learn the process vicariously through him.
On the horizon...we have been offered jobs in Martiniqie for the winter/spring. We'll see if we get there but wouldn't that be nice? Making money in paradise...
I am dirty and need to scrub a layer of grease, oil, dirt, salt, and grime off. So, that's all for now...
cheers,
