My last posting described our problematic crossing to Provo - however I neglected to mention the hi-light of the evening sail. The micro-organisms in the water were phosphorescent. In the churned up white water from the boat action there was sparkling blue flashes of light.
We finally left Provo for So. Caicos across the banks. It was a 50 mile trip with numerous coral heads to dodge about halfway across. We were heading east into an easterly trade which was not condusive to sailing. (It was not the best day to cross but we were tired of Provo.) As we did not leave at the crack of dawn we had to anchor on the west side of Long Cay with a short hop around Long Cay the next day into Cockburn Harbor (South Caicos). As we were anchoring in the lee of Lang Cay I was on the bow and then this thing comes flying past my head and lands on the deck. It was a squid and it was pumping out ink all over the deck. What a mess. As I threw the squid back into the water you could see the ink trail behind it as it swam away. The ink stained the deck and I could not get it out with any of the products we purchased in the states. However a product called Krazy Klean that we bought at Top II Bottom in Georgetown worked great. Who ever heard of flying squid?
South Caicos has the clearest water that we have seen so far. We were anchored in 10 feet of water and could see every detail of the bottom. The town itself was disappointing. There was not much activity with few things of interest to see. We did have a nice chicken lunch at a local restaurant.
Once the weather forecast improved for a passage to Luperon we set out for Great Sand Cay in the Turks where we stayed overnight. What a beautiful island (uninhabited). Wonderful sand beach on the lee side and great beach combing on the windward side. When shelling with Marcia from Non-linear and Jane from Cheetah II. The island has a light on it but typically it was non operable. Apparently the lights in Turks and Caicos are frequently vandalized. This light was missing its solar panels. We stayed overnight at the island and left at 5 pm on Wednesday for arrival first thing in the am at Luperon, a 77 nm trip. We had a perfect sail - 10-15 knots on a close reach and a full moon. We had all our sails out and were doing 5-6 knots. Only problem was that our auto-pilot died and we had to hand steer all night. We arrived at Luperon at 8 am on Thursday, April 5 and had handy Andy lead us into the harbor. After anchoring I noticed another sea creature on the deck. This time it was a flying fish.
Our first day in port we paid $25 for immigration and an $11 port fee at the office at the government dock. Then we had to go back to the boat and wait for the agriculture officer and pet officer to come to the boat. The agriculture officer instructed us to place our foreign (imported) trash in the round barrel on the dock and the trash from Luperon in the square container - $ 10 please. (At night they set fire to both containers which are next to each other on the dock - what's the point???). The pet inspector said any pets, and we said no, and he said $10 please. Later that day another official came to the boat, and we had to acquire tourist cards for each of us, $ 20 please.
Luperon is a vibrant town although quite poor. The people are out in the streets socializing. All the children say Allo as we pass. People are cutting up fish in the street. Scooters are the main form of transportation and zip around sometimes with three people on them. Of course there are cars and horses and donkeys.
That first night we went to Capt. Steve's for dinner. Steve is an ex-Patriot.
Friday, the second day, I went to the falls with the other cruisers. John stayed on the boat to work on the autopilot. Sea U Manana had a spare autopilot computer that we brought from him.
The falls had 27 levels but we only did the first seven. The stream carved a narrow channel through the rock. So the channel had towering cliffs on each side of the stream. There are a series of falls along the stream. We climbed up the falls through the water. Rock climbing with water rushing against you. We had three strong guides who helped us up the falls. Could not have made it without them. One section of the stream between the falls was flowing so swiftly that we had a rope to pull ourselves along. Going down it was like water slides and the last one we had to jump off a cliff into the pool below. They actually made us wear helmets and life vests. My arms and legs are tired and sore. Part of the trip to the falls was suppose to be lunch at a native restaurant but as it was Good Friday the restaurants were closed so we were invited into a private home for lunch. We had fish (that's all that is served on Good Friday), salad (lettuce, corn and cucumbers with lemon dressing), a beet, egg and potato salad, and a bean (looked like lima beans) and squash soup type dish served over rice. For desert we had a traditional Easter dessert comprised of sweetened condensed milk, coconut, chocolate, and cinnamon sticks cooked in a large kettle over a wood fire in the back of the house. Tasty but very sweet.
Tomorrow pig roast at yacht club.
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