Ionian , May 2007 - the Odysseus cruise - 9:25 PM, May. 24, 2007

First trip as « owners », first time in Greece, which we found amazingly cheap, very friendly, but maybe a bit dodgy on the ecology front.

Friday April 27 Brussels - Gouvia

Left Brussels heat wave for cold, grey, drizzly Corfu. Arrived at Gouvia to board Roisin Dubh, a bit bigger and considerably older than our Sirius which was still there but due out in 2 days. But RD was in a good overall state – just enough things for Popeye to twiddle / fix to keep him occupied. Was somewhat gobsmacked to learn that the holding tank had been rendered inoperational “because clients forget to empty it” – so all goes direct to the sea!

Also small problem with electrickery – although the boat has shore power, no cable is provided, the reason offered  being that all the power outlets have different connectors, and that we only have to ask for a cable on the quay / in the marina. Reality was somewhat different – we never tracked down a power cable / connector, so spent 3 weeks keeping the fridge cold with ice bought in supermarkets, or via  the engine each time it was on.

Saturday April 28 Gouvia - Agni

Sorted out a few probs with bilges / cockpit lockers / furlex and left Gouvia just as a bus load of noisy Dutch flotilla crews arrived. Headed up the coast to  Kalami bay, much too built up, so about turn to  Agni bay, on the pontoon of Taverna Nikolas, preparing to open for the season the next day. Popped in for a beer, and went away with a freebie bottle of wine, since we were the first customers of the season! Fixed the autopilot which had inverted wiring.  Wash from passing ferries made for an uncomfortable night, with a bit of “fender watch”.

Sunrise at Agni bay - Albania in the background

Sunday April 29 Agni  - Kassiopi

Shared a “full English” at the taverna, Popeye eating the bacon and sausage, me the eggs and beans – the forecast said “light winds”? Continued up the coast for a lunch stop and anchor practice near Psaromitsa. This was the first time we were only 2 on board, and wanted to do the anchor thing in private, before having to “Med moor” in front of an audience. Got it OK at second try. Peaceful for 2 hours until the wind turned, strengthened and whitecaps invaded the bay. Continued on up to Kassiopi, fishing port with room for 3 yachts -we were the third. First was a cool German, second was a raving loony Brit, who’d not sailed for 14 years, had bought a floating dustbin in Preveza, and was attempting to sail it to Malta in a 10 day time frame, with 2 novices as crew, the wrong way round Corfu! Much effing and blinding heard from neighbours, one threatening to jump ship, skipper trying to engage Popeye as delivery skipper.... Suggested they visit “liveaboard corner “in Gouvia  - saw them there 2 days later!

Kassiopi:

Monday April 30 Kassiopi – Corfu town

Visit doctor / pharmacy – Popeye’s old diabetic foot wound playing up. Doctor asks “Where are you staying?” We say “boat”, doc goes pale. Whatever, in for 3 weeks of intensive foot care. Strange Brit neighbour fell off boat night before, popped his shoulder, and “wasn’t even p1ssed” - must’ve been on something else then. Back down the coast to Corfu town yacht club. First public go at 2 handed Med mooring – scored 8/10 – high praise from Popeye.Only 5 min walk from town centre, but 20 EUR for the use of 2 showers / 2 WCs on the other side of the harbour seemed a bit steep. Evening visit of Corfu town. Not overly impressed. Very mediocre pizza. Dolphins in Corfu bay – real, or robots planted by tourist office?

Tuesday May 1 Corfu town- Gouvia

Walked to airport to pick up Patsy, Popeye’s sister, taxi back. She brought rain with her - tons of it! During brief weather window, sailed back up to Gouvia, went to take the mooring line – covered in the stuff which should have been in the holding tank. Brave little sailor that I am, made the boat fast, retched later.

Wednesday May 2 Gouvia  - Mourtos

Today we set off for the trip south. At this time of year, dominant wind is NW, so the S trip is OK, the return is a bit of a beat. So what did we have today? SW!!! But WTF, we’re here to sail, so sail we did, tacking gaily to and fro, putting reefs in almost everything, apart me underwear. Still not too happy with this heeling business, Popeye promises to start out with less canvas in the future, “for the comfort of novice crew” as read in sailing press.

Arrived Mourtos, Sivota islands around 17:00, just before the Dutch flotilla we’d fled 2 days before! Mourtos charming -town quay with water and elec, free if you take neither, and good tavernas. Recommend Georgio’s family.

Thursday May 3 Mourtos - Paxos

Although we have 2 GPS giving speed, the boat speedo was KO, and Popeye required SOG, so hairy few minutes where he pulled something out of the forecabin bilge, while I had to instantly put another thingy in, else we would sink. He twiddles / blows on first thingy, and then we repeat the process, thankfully only taking on a very small amount of sea, left to me to mop up, of course! Short motorsail over to Gaios on Paxos, speedo now working. Another free town quay (water only by lorry, no elec), very charming place , shame about the road works and sledge hammers. Foray into the village for mooring lines (the ones provided were fit for cargo boats, and too much for my spaghetti arms) – measured by height from shopkeepers’ feet to …. willy? navel? and sold by the kilo, not by the meter!

Friday May 4 Paxos - Preveza

Cold grey morning, forecast wind SE! Longish day today, over to Preveza on Greek mainland. Tried the sails whenever possible, but a lot of crew energy expended, and not much fuel saved. Maybe this is the time to mention that although we are 3 aboard, Patsy is terrified about heights, empty spaces….and the only place she can go above decks is the cockpit, so the roles were distributed very evenly  - she galley slave, me deck crew. Anyways, got into Preveza around 17:00, tried the “marina” – dead zone. Why do Greeks start to build marinas and then abandon them? So, tied up to (free) town quay, smack in the middle of (smelly) town. Watched life go by, interesting game of he/she? due to quantity of transvestites  passing by.Weather forecast 19:00 not good –SSE 7. Had to remind Popeye of prior agreement that 4/5 is OK, 6 is to be discussed, but that we don’t do 7.He didn’t take it too kindly, and had to be reminded that we were very short handed, and that if he wanted to do 7, it would be single-handed. Good and very cheap meal in town, then back to the boat for …. a night of hell .At 23:00, boat gets close to quay, pushed by strengthening wind. Fender watch, bit of motor to keep us off the quay, bit of sleep. Weather at 01:00 – gales over Ionian – go back to bed.

Saturday May 5 stuck in Preveza

Weather at 9:00 still saying SSE 7, at 13:00 6/7, decreasing later. Decide to stay put. Popeye not happy. Amusing antics of other boats coming in out of the bad weather, including one Sunsail, 11 attempts to anchor! Another afternoon of gusts towards the quay, bursts of motor, neighbour asks if our anchor might be dragging.Good question.Anchor watch till 1:30, then again from 5:45. Never want to see Preveza ever again.

Sunday May 6 (skipper’s birthday) Preveza - Meganisi

Forecast ESE 6/7, but going stir crazy in Preveza, so cast off at 10:20, bound for the Levkas canal and Meganisi island. Scary approach to canal entrance – almost invisible in morning haze, but got there spot on noon, for the hourly opening of the swing bridge. Except it didn’t open until 12:47! Grrr.But a lovely sail once out of the canal – just the genoa, nice flat fast ride, arrived in Porto Spilia 15:45. Like finding paradise  - Spilia  has pontoons, laid mooring lines, water, elec (all for free, on the understanding, not the obligation, that you will patronise the taverna), plus orgasmic hot showers, as long as you want for 3 EUR, plus laundrette at 5 EUR a go. Taverna was excellent, and very good value for money. Also provided fresh bread and ice next day.

Monday May 7 Meganisi - Ithaca (Kioni)

Walked up the steep hill to the village, which was not very open - too early in the season. Leisurely departure around 11, motored for an hour, then dropped the hook for lunch. Log book does not record where. Forecast at 13: 00 says NW 4/5. Set off again around 14:30. Wind seemed somewhat fresher than 4/5, boat speed up to 7,5 k , and a certain amount of heel (still can’t feel comfortable with that), when Popeye decides to reduce the genoa. Didn’t secure the stringy thingy (don’t know it’s name in English) so the genoa ran out again, and we started over. Then a second reef in the main – proved very difficult to do at the sprayhood end, so I was sent to winch it in at the mast. It was gusting 7 by now, and I suddenly realised that though I knew where the harnesses were, we’d been remiss on the safety drill! Tacked back and forth before Atokos, for what seemed like an eternity. Relieved to arrive at Kioni town quay at 18:00. Popeye declared that it had been a “belle journée de voile sportive”, and I was too knackered to argue.Very gusty harbour, so added another line during the evening.

Tuesday  May 8 Kioni – Vathi

Short hop today, so morning of R+R, ie cleaning heads and fridge. 2 hours motor sail south, arrived in Vathi . Moored at 3^rd attempt, including picking up an anchor attached to a mooring line on the quay. My first experience of finding something on the end of our anchor. Watched arrival of a Neilson flotilla – shore staff giving directions for steering and when to drop anchor, another in dinghy, nudging them in the right direction.