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A Grand Day Out

A lazy start, bright sunshine and little wind. We tried to sail for a while but caught no fish. Then we overtook “Cathay Clipper”, the prettiest of the Brit boats from our anchorage,. She was attempting to calibrate her log by motoring in circles.

Eventually, late morning we reached as far as we could with the current state of the tide and all but ran aground in 1.5 m (ie zero cm below the keel). Anchor down we cooked the mackerel from yesterday and then added them to a risotto – a tasty lunch. By 2 pm there was enough water to make an attempt on the channel leading up to the quay at Kenmare Town. This was marked with two starboard hand cans and a red one all on the north shore of the river. None were on the chart or mentioned in our pilot. Despite the marks the channel was shallow but around 45 mins later Temptress was safely anchored off the quay away from the trip boats – a new distraction for the crowd waiting to board the “SeaFare”.

The town itself is a short walk further north and as you come over the hill meets you with a treat for the eyes: the straight main street runs down to the Market Square (actually a triangle but called a square – only in Ireland!). The buildings that line each side are a host of different colours like a paint chart with their sign boards swinging in the breeze and chairs and tables or goods for sale on the pavement outside. Not a high street chain store in sight and all the better for it!  After a turn round the triangle./Square pausing briefly to visit the heritage centre we set off up a second street of shops and bars in search of fishing gear, specifically a landing net. We optimistically thought it might improve our chances of another seafood supper.

Retracing our steps, we headed back down the river to Kilmakilloge and Bunaw Harbour. We picked our way in anchoring on the transits off the head of the quay as per the pilot. Close by was Cathay Clipper and the boat we had moved in order to leave Dingle. Soon afterwards we were hailed by a passing dinghy laden with crew “you’ll be too late for the mussels unless you hurry”. Ashore we soon discovered why, the local mussels served at the bar in Bunaw were wonderful – our first really excellent meal ashore since arriving in Ireland with Temptress back in May. Later we sat outside the bar with our beers and chatted with a leather clad couple who had just taken part in the Harley meet in Killarney and a Dutch couple from a camper van parked nearby. All were enjoying the Kerry hospitality. It was starting to get dark when we headed home.

8:54 PM - Oct. 23, 2006 - post comment