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In 2005 we bought a Jeanneau Sun Oddessy 37 ft in Pula, Croatia, this blog follows our travels from 2007, when we return in June and continue our journey down through Croatia and into Italy and Greece, and in future years further on to Turkey and who knows where else
The inland sea, Ionian SeaSep. 15, 2007
Oh dear, we are getting down to perhaps the last blog from Wrighteau before we head off to Italy with our land legs. Spatakhori was indeed a nice bay, but the swell was immense and with not so much water below us we were a bit anxious. The Taverna owner behaved arrogantly, and we were of course obliged to eat at his Taverna, but it was not a memorable night. Next day we returned to Aberlike which is fast becoming our favourite bay, our German and Austrian friends still there, so it was like returning home. We went into Nidri where one of the Charter companies, Neilson Charters, are good enough to let us have a berth on their pier, out of Charter return days. As it happened it was a busy day getting stores, and organising things for new guests Jane, Rob and Ju duly arrived as we were racing off to find more gas for the boat, which is no easy feat when arriving into Greece with a silver bottle not a blue one. We were a bit shell shocked when we arrived to the bar they had situated themselves at for a beer, and onto the boat for a slap up snack, or platter mezze style. In the morning we felt obliged to go to the port police to sign off Jeremy Dean and sign on the Tait family, but what ensued is a bit of a horror, the first horror in Greece. The all dressed in white official glared us on entrance, and demanded “what you want?” We have come to report in, and sign in some more passengers. From then we were in there for a good 45 minutes getting a proper grilling, and constant growling, and positively the rudest person I have met in my entire life to this point. Keeping my cool as one must, I felt in a different body looking on, every now and again glancing to the crew who threw a horrified glance back. Finally the passports were THROWN down me, and my last ditch effort at friendliness said Yasas, (good bye) but of course no response. Well this put us slightly behind our schedule, but off we set, motoring and then a bit of sailing down to Fiskardo. What I failed to remark about Fiskardo is that is is on a muddy base which saved it from being obliterated in a big earthquake which damaged so much of the island of Kephalonia. I also failed to mention that it is known as quite a hub for tourists. The tourists were not so obvious, but someone with money must certainly visit, as the boutique clothes shops are a bit frightening, perhaps even Wendy’s would not sell a tiny pair of red denim shorts for 450 euro, that is $900 nz. My figure would not carry them, so Joe was safe on that occasion. We anchored with a line ashore again, masterfully carried out, with Joe on the anchor of course, and a quick Rob jumping out of the blocks with stern line attached and off to the wall and bollard. The bay shortly after that filled up pretty quickly. We ventured into the village for a wander around before a cheeky little curry and red wine on board. A short trip next day to Ay Nickalaou gave us some pleasant sailing time, and a pleasant bay with good secure holding. Lots of swimming was appreciated by all, and some more good eating many thanks to Ju who excelled with left overs swept up into a feast. In the night the wind became slightly ferocious, possibly 30 knots, so at 3am we let out some more chain, in 12 metres or so we had out 60 metres, so there was no moving us. Oh well, another blue sunny sky to wake up to, our fruit and cornflakes breakfast and then off. We have however noticed the fruit is becoming slightly less appealing, end of season I guess. Jane laughed at my fussiness this morning, not up to my standard after so much outstanding fruit. It was very definitely a motoring day, so many boats going hither and tither, I can only wonder and fear the business of July and August, when they tell us it is mad crazy. Might have to re-evaluate our holiday strategy for next year. This is also on a shipping lane as we weaved in and out of three big ships in a within 15 minutes. All this hot and bothering called for a dip, so just of Meganisi we depowered and, making sure that someone remained on the boat, jumped off to flounder in 100 metres of blue fresh water. Ah yes, all agreed that this was definitely the way to live. We had another night in Port Atheni and walked to the village, and evening meal at the Taverna, where there was to be some Greek dancing. Well the waiter, chef and owner did their thing briefly, then engaged the punters for an all-in jig, then some very western music, so we all jigged about for quite some time before successfully navigating our way back to Wrighteau. Yes another sunny morning to wake to, I was so desperate to have the Genniker up for the team, and coming out of the bay it looked so promising, sheets at the ready, halyard all set to go, then the routine frustration, the wind followed us round, so a gentle motor around the Onnasis island, Skorpious. We lunched in a perfect little spot, the water so clear we could identify all the pebbles on the sea floor at 5 metres. Some rebels keen to be photographed on the prohibited island, off they went. A van came down when another yacht crew ventured above the high tide mark so he briskly swam back to his boat. We returned out our favourite little Aberlike bay, usual reliable teamwork, and conscientious stern line master, Rob, all in place nice and neat. We tramped our well worn track to the village of Vathi for Pizza at the Twins, which most fortuitously is a favourite of Ju. Just before we finished and left, (fortunately just before we finished) their band started up. I had no idea their music sounds so Egyptian and we half expected a snake to rise up from somewhere, but also the funny thing about this music was the drummer seemed to be off on another tangient, completely different moment in time, and one third one, the bass guitar, all on a different plane completely. Yes this was a pretty good time to make our escape for our evening stroll home. This brings us to this morning, and it is getting perilously close to our packing up Wrighteau. We stopped for a swim beside Jackie Onassis retreat cottage, Jane swam over and when she was slow to return I swam over to check things out, she was waiting there for Jackie to produce the tea and small cakes. Joe and Rob thought they also could smell the scones and joined us, but no dice, so we returned to instant coffee on Wrighteau and up anchor and though the canal to Lefkada, where we partook in our last supper and vino together, packed up and a fond farewell. The rest of today will be a quietish time, it is too windy to hoist the sails to wash them, so we will have a bit of a tidy up tomorrow before perhaps getting to Vonista for our last night out at anchor.
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