May. 12, 2008 - Life in the Ionian

We have now spent a fun 6 days showing the boys the parts of the Ionian Islands which we have visited before.  Lefkvas was a smash hit, with the boys hiring mopeds to give the locals a run for their money.  Nige and I did envisage some sort of accident about to happen but were pleasantly surprised; especially knowing how kamakazee you have to be to ride on the roads here!  We spent the evening at a taverna with the locals, eating superb meats off the spit, including lamb spleen, beef heart and various bits that made Ben squirm!!  Delicious.

Spartahori was our next port of call, which is the most tranquil of settings – we scaled the long and winding road (thank you Paul McCartney!) to the little village at the top with superb views over the bay and mountains and an equally superb little bar where we saw the sunset over a few Ouzos. Our trip down the hill was much easier and we spent the evening eating freshly caught fish sitting on the little private beach of the taverna listening to the gentle lapping of the sea at our feet – bliss.  The owner even gave us a bottle of wine to take on our way – so kind these people.

The boys at work with the genny.

Fiskhardo followed – the island where they filmed Captain Correlli’s Mandolin.  We stopped off at an anchorage just south of Fiskhardo for lunch and a snorkel and swim – very refreshing. Onto the picturesque little harbour with colourful waterfront houses and tavernas.  We had been photographed on the way in by an English chap who has just started up a marine photography business.  Great pictures – he was very enthusiastic and offered to follow us out the next day to take some extra shots with the gennaker.  The little port was full so we moored off a lone taverna the other side of the harbour where we had another good meal – Matty particularly with his enormous lobster.   A trot around the path into town for a cocktail or two, where we left the boys to enjoy themselves and Nige and I retired to coffee and Metaxa on deck.  02.30 am and we were awoken by the raucous sounds of singing and clapping – the boys were back safely although worse for wear but I was so relieved as I had been having visions of one of them falling off the tender.

The next day we set sail for Sivota and were quick to set the gennaker for a further camera shoot from Kevin, the marine photographer.  Super sail for most of the trip and arrived at 14.00 to the beautiful harbour surrounded by mountains. Lunch on board and then a drink at Yanni’s taverna just a few feet from our stern – how very convenient!  Yanni even gave us a passeralle (well a plank of wood!) to make our embarkation a tad easier. Another tasty meal and complimentary Metaxas all round from our genial host.  What hospitality.

Enjoying the ride.

Set off for Preveza the following morning going back up through the Lefkvas canal.  A bigger traditional town but charming and still quite old fashioned.   Matty had to go up the mast again to re-tie the port-side lazy jacks.   Caused quite a stir on the quay and drew a big crowd – should have passed the collection hat around!  Found a taverna down a little side street under a canopy of honeysuckle and jasmin. Best meze so far especially the crabcakes.  Yet again the owner proffered a complimentary drink and we tried the local brandy – yamas!

Matty up the mast.

Onto Gaios on the delightful island of Paxos and today we had a short trip up to Mourtos on the mainland. 

The boys have only one more day left which we shall spend in Plataria and then make the last leg of their epic voyage to Gouvia Marina on Corfu for their return flight late Wednesday.  Then its down to us – must get my competent crew book out and inwardly digest – which rope did you want me to pull Nige?!!!

May. 6, 2008 - We're on our way again!! Second time lucky.......

30.04.08

Yipee! Atlantico is fully dressed again and looks pretty dapper with her new mast and rig, crispy sails and amazing gennaker. The courtesy flag of Italy has been hoisted and the ensign neatly whipped onto the back stay – rule Britannia!!

We set sail from our host for the winter, Marina di Capitana at 10.50 hrs – Nige, me and our superb testosterone crew of Ben, Matty and Matt. Blue skies, sun, a fully stocked boat and guess what? Wind on the nose!! 7 months down the line and you would have thought the wind would have been kind and changed direction for our second attempt to reach Sicily. Still, our tummies replete after a Mediterranean lunch on deck, we settled down to an afternoon of motoring - just lets hope the wind changes in our favour for our first over-night sail – where are you Mary Poppins! As if by magic, the wind veered enabling us to hoist the main and jib for the first time – hurrah. After various tweaks we finally had the perfect set up touching 7 knots. Afernoon tea & bickies duly served in celebration. Ben helming reaching 7.7 knots we put the first reef in. Night watch and the boys did first stint 2200-0200, Nige and I volunteering for the graveyard watch. A couple of dolphins, 3 tankers, a shooting star and, of course, the luminous sea micro-organisms entertained us; together with the ever impressive pitch-black sky studded with the galaxy of so many bright stars – ahhh!!

Boys on Tour

 01.05.08

After brekkie a pod of 10 dolphins decided to perform for us, staying with the boat jumping and diving for some time – magical. Boys sunburnt from yesterday – I did warn them to cover up – had their siesta before night-watch. Nige and I awoke to our 0200 start to the sight of land – hurrah we had made Sicily with mast in tact!! So good to see land after 2 nights/2 days at sea.

02.05.08

We decided to skip going into Cefalu and head on for Portorosa as the facilities were much better especially having showers – well needed by all 5 of us salty sea-dogs! So worth another full day at sea. Again, we were entertained by dolphins, a basking

shark (not of the Jaws type thank goodness!), a huge pink jellyfish and hundreds of Velella Velella (a mini-jellyfish which looks like a small bubble of plastic floating on the surface of the sea but which apparently can inflict a very nasty sting). Ain’t nature grand … finally we arrived in Portorosa at 16.45 having motored along an impressive Sicilian coastline with WOTN yet again!!

Tor tackling the new kite.

03.05.08

Up at 07.30 and Matty scaled the heights to the top of the mast (I hasten to add that I had to do the same thing whilst in Sardinia to attached clevis-pin shackles and new halyards to first spreaders and that was pretty high) to feed a new spinnaker halyard into the mast. Set sail under blue skies to end of the Sicilian coast and into the amazing Messina Straits with full sails and new Gennaker flying – what a marvellous sight! Nige was like the cat that got the cream – proverbial Cheshire!! Fantastic sail for 3.5 hours, wind up to 12 knots, great fun - we were screeching down those straits dodging the many ferries that crossed from Sicily to Italy at regular intervals and who looked like tower blocks compared to us. Arrived in Reggio di Calabria at 1800 exhilarated but exhausted – so pleased for Nige after all the dramas of the past year. Another welcome shower even though I had to share mine with Nige in the male portacabins and the water went cold on us!! Stocked up on supplies for our next two- nighter at sea en route to our evening meal in the town.

04.05.08

0800 hours and off again. The sea was not kind and became decidedly lumpy which was not conducive to pleasant sailing but the thought of reaching Greece at long last spurted us on even if it was 260 nautical miles to go. Cooking was a nightmare but I was getting used to being thrown about the galley on all fours and attempting to control crockery and stuff sliding from one work surface to another whilst praying the boiling water on the gimbled oven didn’t over-spill on top of my head whilst getting the food out of it – superb bruises on knees!! The autopilot was also U.S. so we had the added pain of having to helm manually through the night and following day – oh joy!! We ate in shifts on deck to keep whoever was helming company but the sight of a couple of turtles enlightened the evening added to the fact we only had one more night and day to arrive at our destination.

Dodging the ferries in the Strait of Messina

05.05.08

Everyone feeling jaded today and slept intermittently during the morning to re-charge batteries. Colder too – sun but windy and still a lumpy sea. Saw another turtle and had Fray Bentos pies for supper which were amazingly tasty and comforting with mashed spud and vege. Boys saw yet more dolphins and a funny little yellow bird which kept them company for half an hour attracted to the steaming light. Nige and I had the pleasure of the Ionian Queen, a massive cruise liner which imitated Blackpool illuminations a treat!

06.05.08

Dawn broke to reveal the coastline of Lefkas and we called up the boys from their slumber to have a ceremonious raising of the Greek flag at 0700 hrs. We timed it well to reach the top of the canal and lifting bridge at 0900 hrs and duly made our way to the town quay and perfected a bloody marvellous manoeuvre stern-to!! Well after this voyage of 6 days and 605 nautical miles from Sardinia, 4 over-nights at sea, I think we deserve a moment of back-patting!!

Lifting bridge at Lefkas.

Now we intend to make the most of the boat in the Ionian and we will up-date this Blog as and when and in between having a relaxing and jolly social time with visiting friends and locals alike – pass me my Ouzo Nige ……..

With love to you all. Nige & Tor x x

Sep. 28, 2007 - Marina bound

19 September 2007

Well we are now well and truly marina-bound and Atlantico looks awful without her mast and rig - Nige spent some time speaking to the insurance company, Hanse, Sparcraft for the rig and North Sails.  The office here at the marina has the only English speaking person in the whole area and she has been great and extremely helpful. We have checked for damage over Atlantico and tomorrow when the wind abates we intend to clean her up.  Having showered and feeling human again we walked to a local restaurant over the supermarket which tuned out to be amazing. Totally deceptive from the outside – all white leather and  designer interior. Superb food; antipasta to die for, especially the fish dishes and fillet steaks that were truly melt-in-the-mouth.  A huge pizza oven was manned by a chap fondly to become known at Joe 90/four eyes, who made dough by hand and tossed it around in the air like a cheerleader with her baton! 

20 September

The boys got the bikes out and went on a recci of the area which turns out to be not much!  The marina is situated in a hamlet of residential houses but nothing else.  One little supermarket which is limited and a bus stop into Cagliari about 20 kilometres away.  Great!!  No-one speaks English – how inconvenient and I desperately need to do some serious washing of sheets, towels etc.  

21 September

Arose early to catch the blue bus (advised by the marina receptionist that it’s the best one to catch) into Cagliari armed with two huge bags of washing (widow t****y eat your heart out!).  We waited and waited and waited – no bus; only the local one which stops at every village on the way and takes about 2 hours.  Eventually we decided to hire a car for a week as its cheaper in the long run and gives us opportunities to get out and explore.  The drive to Cagliari was interesting to say the least – just witnessing the Italians driving like maniacs, overtaking on solid lines, weaving in and out and honking horns, driving at 80 miles an hour – just unbelievable!  We made it safely and did laundarette and lunch.  Not too bad except the boys had two tee shirts and shorts nicked from the dryer.

Over the next few days we gradually got into the swing of a non-sailing itinerary.  The boys found a sandy beach down the road from the marina where we swam, we went back to Cagliari to sort out the boys’ flight home gaining a parking ticket into the bargain, we played dominoes, ate Italian ice-cream by the bucket load – wonderful stuff, motored the boat around to a little bay where the boys swam and snorkelled until rain stopped play.  Eventually, it was the boys last day before departure to UK via Florence at 0600 Wednesday morning (26^th).  We decided to go to the beach as the sun was shining for the first time in two days.  We found a little café open (everywhere has shut down as end of season) where the owner did us proud and shared a complimentary liquer with us which we had to swig “ tequila-style" straight down. A superb final farewell meal at the Piano Bar above the supermarket and a bleary-eyed drive to the airport at 03.15 a.m. the next day.

Nige and I really missed the boys - they had been great company and we’d been through so much.  We drove to Villasimuis, a town 30 kilometres away on true hairpin bends on an amazing coastal road with wonderful views and sheer drops – toe curling at times!  Back to the marina and rain.  Our wedding anniversary (27^th ) was hectic during the day doing another laundarette stop, chandlery (yes more money!)  attempting to locate a post office to pay our parking fine and  a bike shop to buy a pump (flat tyre).  Relaxed later over a super meal ….. and yes it was raining yet again.  Who said the Med was always hot and sultry!

28 September

Nige met local rigger, with his translator, to discuss requirements.  At last, a break-through with somebody – still no news from any other ******s.  It is so frustrating just hanging around for quotes and e-mails with prices. 

We have decided to fly over to Greece to spend our last week with Baz and Rita on their boat complete with mast and sail.  We are over-wintering Atlantico at Marina de Capitana where she will get her new mast and rig and the yard will anti-foul her.  Nige will drive over next April with new sails and prepare her for the last leg of our journey to Greece – 6 months late but life isn’t plain sailing ….

We travel via Rome and Athens and then a 6 hours coach drive to meet up with Baz/Rita in the Ionian and hopefully have a bloody good sail!!    

Sep. 20, 2007 - Disaster!!

19 September 2007

The day started so well with an early departure from Marina di Capitana and straight into wind “up the chuff “ 10-15 knots – yippee!  Nige suggested putting the big genoa up and we flew along.  70 miles under the belt and maximum speed reached 12 knots down a wave with the genoa goose-winged.  Wonderful.

Running downwind (at last!) to Sicily

I went into the galley to dish supper up at 19.30 hrs whilst the men shortened sail in readiness for our over-night passage.  Both Matty and Matt were in the cockpit and Nige up front by the mast trying to clear a fouled line to the furling gear, when there was an almighty bang and the forestay snapped at the top of the mast.  The mast fell slowly down towards the boys who ran for cover – it veered over to fall onto the starboard rail as the boom crashed down onto the port rail of the cockpit.  I ran up the galley steps into a wildly flapping “tent” of canvas with wires and ropes flailing everywhere.  The wind was whipping everything about so much, Matt went up on deck with Nige to disconnect the shrouds and cut sheets, and attempted to pull the mainsail down to salvage it.

Attempting to free the rig

Matty and I were undoing all the knotted ends of ropes using a serrated bread knife to cut through some for speed.  Nige nearly got trapped between the stanchions and mast as it started to enter the water.  The two of them worked so hard freeing the rig as Matty and I had to pull the boom over the steering binnacle to allow it to follow the mast into the water.  Nige was concerned that the mast and spreaders would hole the hull as the wind was pushing it hard into the beam so decided to let the whole rig go.  Exhausted, we all watched as it disappeared into the sea, the sails looking eerily ghostlike as they sunk away from sight.

It was now pitch black with rocking waves and howling winds and we all agreed to turn around and head back to Sardinia as it was the shorter distance and would take us into a marina we knew for depth/facilities as all our instruments had been lost and, with no radar, radio and electrics we felt particularly vulnerable.  We only had a stern light so we left the saloon light on for warning to other vessels.  We donned warm overnight gear and, duly safety-harnessed on, we started the long 16 hour journey back to Sardinia.  We all stayed up in the cockpit taking turns to helm in one hour shifts whilst two were on lookout for vessels/lobster pots etc and one slept in the corner.  There was an amazing thunder and lightening storm going on to our portside which didn’t help matters! It was truly exhausting and sometimes trying to keep awake was so hard, the ol’ eyes just wanted to shut.

As dawn arrived around 0730 we passed the headland and made an excrutiatingly slow journey against the wind and in rough, choppy seas up to the marina.  Those last few hours seemed to be endless.  We tied up on the fuel pontoon as there was now a Force 7 howling and we were asked to stay there overnight until it abated.

Safely back at Marina di Capitana

How vulnerable were we and how lucky.  I thank God that no-one was seriously injured or had been dragged overboard or that the hull had been holed.  I also thank my “three stars” who acted so quickly and for whom I have the utmost respect in their ability to cope under such stress and duress. 

Enough of that drama – it feels good to be alive.  Where's my large gin!!!

So thats the end of the ride for the immediate future.  We have now slipped into grockel mode enjoying the delights of Sardinia (well the marina and neighbouring Cagliari) whilst we await quotes for repairs and agreement with our insurers.  We'll update you as and when we have news. 

Sep. 17, 2007 - Goodbuy Norm, Hello Matt(s)

14 September 2007

Woke at 08.30 for a well earned day of rest.  Our crew change-over too today with Norm flying back late evening and Matty/Matt arriving around 23.00 hrs.  We initially re-fuelled the boat and had a leisurely lunch on the harbour front. Having missed the supermarket due to siesta time we spent the next couple of hours cleaning the boat inside and out – 2 weeks at sea had taken its toll!  Norm and I headed for the supermarket at 17.00 and then we bid a sad farewell to our dear shipmate whose help and companionship had been invaluable and much appreciated.  We will even miss Norm’s contribution to the wind on the boat!  We have had so many laughs even through the stresses of Atlantico’s teething problems and Nige and I will miss him so much.  

And now he's gone I can post this pic of him in full bondage gear!

Having waved Norm off we went in search of some tapas for supper.  We ate at a super little place on the harbour-side which had been recommended by our neighbouring boat owners (dare I say a mobo owner who didn’t know what a genoa was!!) He knew his stuff about tapas though!! Back on board we updated the blog whilst awaiting the boys’ arrival.  It was great to see them both and after they filled their boots with pizza opposite in a taverna,Nige and I joined them for a couple of drinks and caught up with news from home – and, guess what, West Ham’s form over the past couple of matches!  We fell into bed at 01.00 ready to start the next leg of our passage to Sardinia – we had just completed 770 miles to date – possibly half way to our Greek paradise!

New crew leaving Mahon - don't they look white?

15 September 2007

After a delayed start waiting for the laundry – we left Mahon at 12.15 for the 185 miles passage to southern Sardinia.  We motored out of Mahon; a truly beautiful harbour and were ecstatic to find a building breeze on our beam, with winds around 16 knots and, with Atlantico fully canvassed, we were reaching speeds of 8.5 knots achieved in blissful peace – no engine hum in the background for a change.  These conditions lasted until 23.00 when we had to augment engine power.  Matty and Matt were initiated into their first night watch 2200-0200 hrs and did a sterling job.

16 September 2007

As the wind dropped during the night we motored all day – wonderfully warm and late afternoon we were treated to a special display of a pod of 5 dolphins frollicking in the waters all around us performing back flips and diving underneath our bow.  First time the boys had had sight of dolphins this trip – think they were quite impressed.  We decided to carry on overnight again to the south-east side of Sardinia as we would not have reached our intended port until 2300 hrs.  Way points set for Marina de Capitana we changed course for the over-night run. 

17 September

We arrived in Marina de Capitana at 11.45 having given a flying fish a “fishy funeral” at sea – it must have jumped on board during the night – not quite large enough for breakfast!  We had also completed 1000 miles to date. Awesome! First stop the showers to freshen up after 2 days/2 nights at sea and then a welcome drink sitting in the shade of a patio umbrella at the marina restaurant.  We then headed for a little local beach down the road and had a wonderful swim in the azure blue waters where Matt tested out his super-size flippers (Flipper eat your heart out)! and  Matty put Nige and Matt through their paces at water rugby.  Back to wash the ol’ boat down and then another supermarket hit.  Tonight we plan to have an early meal somewhere in town and prepare for the off to Sicily very early morning.

Sep. 15, 2007 - Accross the Calas

11 September 2007

Awoke at 08.30 and once again the statutory re-fuelling (oh Nige is very stringent on his duty now!), topping up water tank and supply shop and prepared for our leg to Majorca.  I had a slight headache courtesy of extremely large gins last night but the journey was kind and not too rough.  WOFN still so motor-sailed and decided to go into Puerto Adriano rather than La Repita and it meant we could crack on and have a sail before our arrival at 21.00 hrs.  It was a huge walk around the perimeter of the marina so, after showering, we went straight to eat at a local Italian restaurant, accompanied by wet hair and plastic carrier bags holding our shower gear (not such a good example of suave, British sailors, that we like to portray!) but it was late, dark and we all felt pretty knackered.  We were also surrounded by Sunseekers of magnificent proportions, mainly German, and felt distinctly outnumbered as one of only two yachts in the marina.  Tummies replete, we made our way back along the marina wall keeping a beady eye out for cockroaches.  Norm had the company of one in the loo earlier (needless to say it beat a hasty retreat when Norm got his tackle out!!)  Nige saw one scuttling across the path on our way back to the boat – eeek!

12 September 2007

Up 0600 for early start to Puerto Llonga.  Strong winds whistled around the headland as we left the harbour and, for the first time in days, Nige smiled like a Cheshire cat!  Oh yes! 25-27 knots on the beam, initially and a brilliant sail for the first leg of the journey but, as we rounded the headland, to head up to Puerto Llonga you guessed it wind OTFN! leading to a monotonous motor up the coast,  spray-hood up, rough and wet, eventually arriving at 19.15 hours.|  Very pretty marina with a palm-tree lined road and fairy lights – aah!  Showered and had probably one of the best meals so far.

A welcome bed by midnight.

Stonking sail to Puerto Llonga

13 September 2007

Awoke to the sound of thunder, lightening and rain at 05.30.  We had intended to leave early but waited until most of the lightening abated.  Eventually getting off  by 07.30 for our last leg with Norm aboard to Menorca.  Cloudy sky and lumpy sea was not pleasant sailing but by 13.15 we had full sails up and Nige once again beaming as Atlantico reached 7.5 knots.  He challenged Norm to match his record speed which Norm duly achieved – you can imagine the male testosterone banter – boys will be boys!!  Saw some jumping fish which Norm reckoned could have been tuna and a gaggle of rafts with palm tree fronds acting as sails floating down wind – surreal!  We had Menorca in our sights at 17.00 but as the wind again swang hard onto our nose we had to motor-sail up to Mahon Harbour which we entered eventually at 21.00.  Finally secured to a floating pontoon for the night Nige and Norm inflated the tender and we made for the quayside and a quick Tex-mex meal.  Back on board by midnight we crashed, no showers, feeling like the wreck of the Hespirus!!

Good meal at Puerto Llonga.

Sep. 11, 2007 - Quiet trip to Mallorca

Tuesday 11^th September

We leave Santa Eulalia, Ibiza at a leisurely 10.00 hrs after shopping for provisions and set sail for Mallorca (wind OTFN as usual so we are actually motoring) on a beautiful hot day.  With autopilot set I (Nige) set about a little clean up and polish of the boat.  As always Norm is there ready to give a hand, in fact he seems to have done quite a lot of polishing this trip!  Anyway I’m working my way round the boat and I keep coming to numerous pink marks on the glassfibre which take some effort to remove.  Couldn’t work out what caused these stains until Norm suggested that the colour matched Tor’s toenail varnish and that maybe she should test it.  Sure enough we had found the cause.  So a note for any of you reading this, who we look forward to welcoming on board in the future – Ladies NO toenail varnish please, gents it’ll be ok for you as long as you wear socks!

Norm with his new designer label shorts.

Sep. 11, 2007 - Onto the Balearics

Wednesday 5 September 07

Having stocked up on supplies and Nige put new pump on the loo (again), we set off for Almeria very glad to say “adios” to Fuengirola and the ex-pat community!  Not much wind but an enormous swell “similar to my Atlantic crossing” commented the ol’ sea dog.  Not pleasant but a huge pod of dolphins made it more tolerable – a joy to watch crossing right across our bow and jumping so high alongside the boat.  We ate supper climbing the 10’ waves and crashing down the other side – Norm had to wash up as Tor felt sick when down below – eek and we were about to do night watches – Tor intended to sleep on deck as the swell had not abated.  Nige/Tor on 1^st watch – woke Norm at 02.00 a.m. for his stint and wind came up so we hoisted the sails.  Quite hairy out on deck and the huge waves still banging us about.  Tor managed to go below in back cabin but slept little with the traveller crashing across and the hull banging and creaking!  During early hours of the morning the wind died and when Nige came up to join Norm at 0600 he was dismayed to find Norm had stopped Atlantico  - for an impromptu bondage session!!  After some 2 hours of sailing around in small circles attempting to find out what we had snagged on, we finally managed to sail free.  Norm went over the side kitted out with snorkel, mask and impressive new rash vest and confirmed all was ok.  What is it about 0600 hours? Not a good omen for Atlantico over the past 2 days!!  During the day the wind built again (still on the nose) and with a broken autopilot (here we go again)  we battled our way through howling winds and a good soaking from waves crashing over the deck to finally reaching the safe haven of Almerimar from winds which were reaching Gale Force 8. Tor’s range of bruises now being pretty impressive!!

Hair on end and salt-encrusted bods we made for the nearest taverna (which just so happened to be opposite our berth!) and downed a couple of pints., Refreshed - Nige and Norm set about mending the autopilot whilst Tor made a fish pie in readiness for the next over-night passage the following day.  We showered, had a brief siesta to catch up on lost sleep and made for the local recommended restaurant for an excellent meal and fell into our beds at 12.30 a.m.

Friday 7^th September 07

We had been warned that the Tramonte winds could rage for another 5 days so we rose early to peruse local weather forecast.  Wind was in the east and light so decided to go for it!  Re-fuelled (after waiting for local power cut to come back on)! Bought new gas bottle, water tank filled – hells bells what could go wrong now!! - we finally headed to Cartagena over the next two days.

We turned 45 degrees around Cabo Gata to come up the Costa Blanca and, as we did, the wind turned to match us and, yet again, remained on the nose!  Consequently we had to motor for full trip, 111 miles over 25 hours but had a pleasant overnight trip assisted by the fully operational autopilot (those boys are so talented) and a very starry, starry night (Don McLean sing your heart out!)  Arrived at Cartagena by 1.00 p.m. and having booked in trotted into the historic city which was surrounded by an ancient city wall and amazing architecture.  Found a wonderful typically Spanish restaurant and enjoyed menu del dia and a couple of well earned drinks!  Nige spent the afternoon washing ten ton of salt off the encrusted decks whilst Tor and Norm did the supermarket dash and then sat in the early evening sun writing postcards and watching a tiny fleet of local sailing dinghies race in the harbour.  Half an hour of bliss!  Back to washing out the mens’ pants in readiness for the next overnight slog to Ibiza.

9^th September 07

Up 0600a.m. refuelled, meal prep for overnight supper, brekkie and off to the Balearics.  Good journey, crossing an amazingly busy shipping lane – those huge tankers are pretty enormous when close up and bearing down on you.  Early supper and coffee watching the sun set and then once again the night watches start.  Norm had an electric storm and had to veer off course to avoid a big coastal ship but apart from lots of little fishing boats there was not too much to worry about.

10^th September 07

Made our way along coast of Ibiza and found a bay to have a refreshing swim and lunch.  Arrived in Puerto Sta Eulalia at 4.00 p.m. very impressive!  Tor to laundarette clean sheets tonight – yippee! and men working on electrical problem this time.  Sorted by 8.00 p.m. off to shower and supper with the sunseeker element (makes a change for the ex-pats of Fuengirola).

Anchored up at Cala Llonga

Tech update for those interested:

Atlantico is three years old and in pretty impressive condition but nonetheless, as with all boats there are always things to go wrong and other things to do!  So far this trip we have renewed the toilet pump twice, stripped down and rebuilt the autopilot, modified the kicker take off point, traced a fault causing shorepower to trip out to dodgy immersion heater connection and rewired the control switch to the anchor windlass.  Norm has certainly been of great help with all these issues.

Sep. 5, 2007 - We're off!

We’re off, the next chapter in our lives and looking forward to all the challenges and aspirations we know it will hold.

Arriving at the boat Nige and Norm do the boats bits – new loo installation, kedge anchor chain etc and Tor/Norm then attack the local supermarket for supplies before the off.

Left Ayemonte at 9 am no wind so motored 55 miles arriving Chipiona 09.40 - shower, paella and bed by midnight.

Up at 6.40 am for Barbate with yet again no wind until, as if by magic, the wind arrived in impressive fashion reaching Force 7 – eek.  Struggled to round Cape Trafalgar (did Nelson have this problem we ask ourselves) 6 hours of slogging it with winds up to 30 knots. Not helped by the fact that the hatches were open when we were caught out by the wind and our bedding was as sodden as we were.  No chundering though – impressive for Tor’s initiation into battling with the elements! Wedging ourselves against the seating looking 8’ down vertically into the murky water of a heeling boat brought the last scene of Titanic to mind but with no Leonardo de Caprico on board I guess Nige and Norm just had to do!

 Finally arrived in Barbate at 11.30 looking like cold, drowned rats in need of a hot shower c/o a kindly security guard who opened up the shower blocks for us,  food c/o Asda Thai green chicken curry and a warm bed by 1.30 am.

Rounding Tarifa

After a late morning stocking up on supplies and Nige putting boat back together again, we were relieved to learn of a favourable forecast and decided to bite the bullet and head for the Strait of Gib.  Yet more wind on the nose forcing us under motor yet again.  Rounded Tarifa by 7.00 p.m. with chilli supper on deck and into the Strait.  Decided to push on through the night for our first nightime passage.  Norm/Tor on first watch approaching the Rock enhanced by the company of a pod of dolphins, numerous tankers along the shipping line and a very bright moon and stars.  The Rock looked impressive illuminated against the darkness.  Disaster struck at 0.600 when, after making good progess through the night suddenly the engine died - quickly identified as lack of fuel.  So some 15 miles off shore with no wind and stupidly an empty spare can (what use is that!) we had to sit and wait before Norm made a commando style raid  in our virgin tender (with oars) on a small harbour for sufficient fuel for us to reach Fuengirola and returning triumphant (with outboard humming).To top it all the new loo’s pump broke which for Tor, with 2 men on board, was not ideal.  Peeing no probs but .....  give me two corks!!  Bled engine and  put in precious diesel finally arriving at 5 pm. Refuelled immediately including spare can!  Spent a pleasant evening in marina restaurant watching the great British ex-pat community at their worst with East Enders on the tv!  Oh joy ....

Leaving Fuengirola now and guess what, wind light and still OTFN!! 

Jun. 22, 2007 - The Inaugural Sail

May. 12, 2007 - Phase 1 - Purchase the Boat