May. 12, 2008 - Life in the Ionian

We have now spent a fun 6 days showing the boys the parts of the Ionian Islands which we have visited before.  Lefkvas was a smash hit, with the boys hiring mopeds to give the locals a run for their money.  Nige and I did envisage some sort of accident about to happen but were pleasantly surprised; especially knowing how kamakazee you have to be to ride on the roads here!  We spent the evening at a taverna with the locals, eating superb meats off the spit, including lamb spleen, beef heart and various bits that made Ben squirm!!  Delicious.

Spartahori was our next port of call, which is the most tranquil of settings – we scaled the long and winding road (thank you Paul McCartney!) to the little village at the top with superb views over the bay and mountains and an equally superb little bar where we saw the sunset over a few Ouzos. Our trip down the hill was much easier and we spent the evening eating freshly caught fish sitting on the little private beach of the taverna listening to the gentle lapping of the sea at our feet – bliss.  The owner even gave us a bottle of wine to take on our way – so kind these people.

The boys at work with the genny.

Fiskhardo followed – the island where they filmed Captain Correlli’s Mandolin.  We stopped off at an anchorage just south of Fiskhardo for lunch and a snorkel and swim – very refreshing. Onto the picturesque little harbour with colourful waterfront houses and tavernas.  We had been photographed on the way in by an English chap who has just started up a marine photography business.  Great pictures – he was very enthusiastic and offered to follow us out the next day to take some extra shots with the gennaker.  The little port was full so we moored off a lone taverna the other side of the harbour where we had another good meal – Matty particularly with his enormous lobster.   A trot around the path into town for a cocktail or two, where we left the boys to enjoy themselves and Nige and I retired to coffee and Metaxa on deck.  02.30 am and we were awoken by the raucous sounds of singing and clapping – the boys were back safely although worse for wear but I was so relieved as I had been having visions of one of them falling off the tender.

The next day we set sail for Sivota and were quick to set the gennaker for a further camera shoot from Kevin, the marine photographer.  Super sail for most of the trip and arrived at 14.00 to the beautiful harbour surrounded by mountains. Lunch on board and then a drink at Yanni’s taverna just a few feet from our stern – how very convenient!  Yanni even gave us a passeralle (well a plank of wood!) to make our embarkation a tad easier. Another tasty meal and complimentary Metaxas all round from our genial host.  What hospitality.

Enjoying the ride.

Set off for Preveza the following morning going back up through the Lefkvas canal.  A bigger traditional town but charming and still quite old fashioned.   Matty had to go up the mast again to re-tie the port-side lazy jacks.   Caused quite a stir on the quay and drew a big crowd – should have passed the collection hat around!  Found a taverna down a little side street under a canopy of honeysuckle and jasmin. Best meze so far especially the crabcakes.  Yet again the owner proffered a complimentary drink and we tried the local brandy – yamas!

Matty up the mast.

Onto Gaios on the delightful island of Paxos and today we had a short trip up to Mourtos on the mainland. 

The boys have only one more day left which we shall spend in Plataria and then make the last leg of their epic voyage to Gouvia Marina on Corfu for their return flight late Wednesday.  Then its down to us – must get my competent crew book out and inwardly digest – which rope did you want me to pull Nige?!!!