Avilion's Blog

Preamble

Retirement from full-time work at the end of May gave me the opportunity of a longer and more ambitious summer trip than in previous years.  I still had to fit round some other commitments, though: a conference in Newcastle and several meetings in London. And the boat had to be back in Craobh for the Mountaineering Club meet at the beginning of August.  With careful timing and a bit of luck, however, it should all be feasible, but sailing to a deadline is always an added worry…

I have acquired a waterproof digital camera, so I can now add piccies!

 

23/6/06   0920 – 1900   Craobh to Sanna Bay  49.2 nm

With Adrian.  Took on 29 l of diesel then motored through Cuan Sound.  NW4 in Firth of Lorne and Sound of Mull gave good sailing and fast progress.  Anchoring at the 2^nd attempt in Sanna Bay, I found conditions considerably better than on my previous visit in 1985.  Dinner aboard.

24/6/06   0755 – 1855   Sanna Bay to Plockton   53.2 nm

Wind mainly SW3 gave mostly very broad reaches with occasional tacks downwind.  Few other boats about in the Sound of Sleat but occasional glimpses of bits of the higher hills behind Sleat gave much entertainment of the “name the hill” variety.

Through the Kyles in heavy showers and then going under the Skye Bridge we met a stream of tugs and other work boats heading in: clearly lousin time!  New territory from here on: coasting up the Duirinish peninsula then Into Loch Carron in clearing weather.  I was a bit concerned that Plockton might be a bit crowded, but in fact there was plenty room and we anchored just off a new-looking pontoon, inflated the dinghy and rowed to said pontoon for an easy arrival ashore for dinner in the hotel.

25/6/06    0640 – 2045   Plockton to Longa to Aultbea   62.5 nm

Motoring in calm at first across Loch Carron and between the Crowlins and Applecross then beating against a cold northerly 3/4 up the submarine range between Applecross and Raasay / Rona.  No exercises in force.  Port tack took us across the mouth of Loch Torridon, and then starboard took us close inshore towards, and then past, Red Point.  After tacking up to Longa we motored through Caolas Beag and anchored in Longa Sound to do the island – tremendous views from the top in all directions.  Seeing the Torridon hills from the seaward direction was particularly satisfying.

We had noticed a tent as we paddled ashore, and we then met its owner who, like us, was collecting islands – with the variation that he considered that “doing” an island required an overnight stay.  Each to his own!   We had also seen Navtex messages about a Nato exercise, and the afternoon’s long beat up to Ruadh Reidh was enlivened by a curious exchange over the VHF with a warship of undetermined nationality.  A series of increasingly odd questions culminated in a request that we supply details of our cargo and manifest!

Once round the point we could free sheets, but motor assistance was required to make any way in the steep seas off the peninsula’s North coast.  After Loch Ewe was reached we entered it on a fast broad reach, dodging an emerging minesweeper at the narrows.  We anchored right in front of the hotel, providing some interest for the tourists, and had dinner there at 2100 without difficulty.  Many interesting historic naval photos on the walls.

26/6/06   0830 – 1900   Aultbea to Isle Ewe to Priest Island to Horse Island to Achiltibuie   24.5 nm

Motoring across to Isle Ewe we did the island and saw quite a few navel vessels heading off in various directions.  More beating in N3 then took us to Greenstone Point after which we could hold a close reach to Priest Island.  Did the island – surprisingly rugged – and found that long heather and shorts is not a good combination: scarted legs nip in salt water!  The view from the top was ample compensation, however:

A pleasant beam reach took us south of Horse Island followed by a short beat up the sound.  From Horse Island’s summit we had a good view of the ferry leaving Ullapool then passing through the Summer Isles.  Motored over to anchor by Achiltibuie pier, then a fast 1½ mile walk got us to the pub 5 minutes before last dinner orders at 2030

27/6/06   0705 – 1545   Achiltibuie to Tanera Mor to Tanera Beag to Handa   31.5 nm

Motored across to Tanera Mor and anchored in front of the pier.

Did hill, and then motored round to Tanera Beag.  It proved to be quite steep and rugged, but with remarkably good paths and more fine views.

Motoring north in near calm between various islands we passed a Norwegian gunboat in dazzle camouflage.  Our friendly waves were ignored.  A breeze of W2 then gave some sail assistance, but basically it was motoring north taking the direct route from Rubha Mor to Stoer with tremendous views of the Sutherland hills;

then past Stoerhead and the Old Man:

and into Handa Sound.  The recommended anchorage was occupied, so we anchored off the beach where the tourist ferry lands.  (When later seen from the shore it was obvious that there would actually have been room for several boats in the normal anchorage, and in fact by the time we returned the other boat had gone, but in the prevailing light conditions we saw no need to move.)

A jet ski playing in the ferry’s wake then circled us with a cheery wave.  Apparently he’d spent most of the day chasing the ferry, and quite clearly had absolutely no idea that he was being annoying.  Ashore we were given strict instructions about the nature reserve status of Handa: the summit is not on the normal tourist route, apparently.  The walk round by the cliffs was very impressive – the Great Stack is quite something – and the island summit was reached surreptitiously from the far side, commando style, to avoid confrontations.  Dinner aboard.

28/6/06   0645 – 1630   Handa to Eilean nan Ron to Talmine   38.9 nm

Motoring north through Handa Sound in light northerlies let us see some of the cliffs from below, then we crossed the mouth of Loch Inchard with Foinaven and Arkle unfortunately shrouded in mist.  Up the coast inshore of Sgeir am Balg gave us views of some impressive stacks and other rocky oddities.  Rounding Cape Wrath generated a real feeling of achievement, though the conditions were relatively gentle with just some swell at the headland itself.

We then motor sailed in N2 through the bombing range.  The range control vessel’s VHF transmission was surprisingly weak, but we calculated that we would be clear of the 5 mile exclusion zone before the 1100 bombardment.  This didn’t stop him calling us back half an hour later to ask if we could go a bit faster!  The yacht which was following half an hour behind us gave them more of a problem, and when the jets arrived they circled around for 20 minutes or so before starting to knock lumps out of An Garbh Eilean.  Very noisy, but surprisingly little smoke or light, though eventually the island was completely shrouded in a dust cloud.

The anchorage at Eilean an Ron was very tight so we took a line ashore, attaching it to the handrail of the landing steps.

Did the island.  It was evacuated around the same time as St. Kilda and has its own forlorn crescent of abandoned houses, but also a rather fine view of Ben Hope.

We then motored past the Rabbit Isles to Talmine.  A lengthy walk took us to the pub which served an excellent dinner – recommended.

29/6/06   0820 – 1710   Talmine to Stromness   44.7 nm

A delayed departure while showers went through was to give us tidal problems later.  The crossing to Orkney was mostly motoring with some sail assistance in the light northerlies.  Dolphins accompanied us for 20 minutes, playing in the bow wave.  We detoured via the west coast of Hoy to look at the Old Man and the cliffs of St. John’s Head.

By now the tide was ebbing, so we crossed to the north side of Hoy Mouth, clear of the tide race, then motored east, keeping between the shallows to port and the standing waves of the rost to starboard.  Initially these tactics worked, and a local fishing boat ahead doing the same thing gave us reassurance that attempting to cheat the tide was possible.  The tide was strengthening, however, and at The Ness, despite full throttle, our SOG became 0.  Fortunately the wind then sprang up and sails and engine together gave us almost 1 knot OG which let us crawl up to the entrance to Stromness.  At this point the ferry left its berth!  Fortunately we were by now out of the worst of the tide and able to cross clear in front of it to lurk by Outer Holm until it passed.  An object lesson, if one was required, in the need to take Orkney tides seriously!

Stromness marina was impressive: high tech security arrangements both for the pontoons and the excellent shower block.  We paid for two weeks of Orkney berthing – which includes all marinas and piers – then had dinner in the recommended nearby café followed by pints in the hotel overlooking the harbour.  Around midnight, for no very obvious reason, the skipper of a big fishing boat decided to put on all his lights and run his engine at high revs for half an hour.  He’d no wish to go anywhere, he seemed to just want to play with it.

30/6/06   1035 – 1905   Stromness to Whanness to Cava to Rysa Sound   12.4 nm

Diesel was available by barrow from the local garage: which is a fine arrangement, but does require estimating how much is needed.  We bought 35 l which left us about 4 l short of full.  After also filling with water and doing a little shopping (all Stromness’ Parmezan cheese had apparently been recalled) we motored in quite strong wind round Graemsay to Whanness.  On Hoy we did Ward Hill by a steep route that gave a bit of scrambling, and from the summit we could see a number of dive boats over the block ships and other wrecks in Burra Sound.

We then had a look at the weird Dwarfie Stane which has an entrance passage and two bed-sized internal chambers carved from the solid rock – not bad given that it was fashioned before metal tools were invented!

Following a late lunch aboard we motored to Cava, where after doing the “hill” we came across the remains of a wartime military establishment, now just the concrete bases of the buildings left - and a single urinal, defiantly standing alone.   We then crossed to Rysa Sound where we anchored for the night.  Dinner aboard.

1/7/06   0730 – 1325   Rysa Sound to Fara to Flotta to St. Margaret’s Hope   13.4 nm

Motored through Rysa Sound and anchored at the NW end of Fara.  Did Fara, which like all these essentially flat islands gave wide views as here looking over to Longhope:

On returning to the dinghy we collecting an abandoned fender from the beach.  Rowing back we passed seals making a series of orgasmic “oh, oh, oh!” sounds, although they didn’t appear to be actually doing anything other than pointing their noses in the air.  Motored to Flotta and anchored between the piers.  Did the hill – which gave fine views of the oil terminal! – and looked at the concrete shell of a large cinema: more wartime remains.  Scapa Flow was a fortress with thousands of service personnel, and countless tons of concrete are left to testify to it all.

Early lunch aboard.  By now the wind was rising and the forecast was poor, so we abandoned plans for other islands and sailed under reefed genoa to St. Margaret’s Hope.  Anchored in the bay and, since it was too rough for the dinghy, stayed aboard sitting out the SE 6/7.

2/7/06   0800 – 1855   St. Margaret’s Hope to Copinsay to Kirkwall   45.1 nm  

After a carefully timed departure to catch favourable tide in the Pentland Firth we motor sailed in light Northerlies through the Sound of Hoxa past an endless series of pill boxes and gun emplacements.  Entering the Firth between Swona and South Ronaldsay, it was annoying to find the tide at the Lother Rock still foul an hour later than predicted.  A very sloppy sea confirmed the Pentland Firth’s reputation.  A mix of sailing and motor sailing took us up the east coast of South Ronaldsay and well offshore of the Churchill Barriers in mainly NE3.

After anchoring in Horse Sound we did Copensay, meeting a sizeable party of kids celebrating a 12^th birthday with a day on an uninhabited island.  It sounded a great idea!

Good views from the lighthouse and an impressive ternery, but no signs of corncrake despite the special field planting designed to encourage their return.

Motor sailing in N2 took us past Mull Head, across the mouth of Deer Sound where a Fisheries Protection Vessel was lurking, into Shapinsay Sound, through The String then inside Thief’s Holm to Kirkwall.  Another splendid marina.  After some delay in checking in (necessary to get a key for the showers at the sailing club) we eventually had dinner in the Indian at 2130.

3/7/06  0955 – 1630   Kirkwall to Gairsay to Wyre to Rousay   18.3 nm

After a departure delayed by blethering with the locals we tacked up Broad Firth in N3 to anchor in a super little bay on  Gairsay.

Did the hill, then more beating took us to Wyre.  The anchorage was very shallow – with hindsight tying to the pier might have been a better bet – and the hill was done at high speed for fear of the boat grounding in the interim.  Because of this we omitting a visit to the remains of Cubbie Roo’s castle – the oldest stone built castle in Scotland, apparently.  Motoring across to Rousay we picked up a VB with very fankled pick up lines.  Did the hill – fine views – and visited a chambered cairn before dinner in the pub.

4/7/06   0715 – 1910   Rousay  to Egilsay to Eday to Kirkwall   25.0 nm

After a reasonably early start we motor sailed to Egilsay, anchoring at the second attempt near the pier.  Ashore we went to the high point (or as near as possible since there is a house built on it) then visited St. Magnus’ Church which is a distinctive landmark, identifying Egilsay from miles around.

Motoring through the north end of Rousay Sound we found depth worryingly less than charted, then a fast sail in SE4 took us to Fersness Bay, Eday.  The planned anchorage was too rough for the dinghy, so we moved across to the windward side of the bay which gave flat water but a longer walk to reach the hill.

Quiet tarred roads took us past the airfield (London Airport!) and past denser growths of bog cotton than either of us had ever seen before.

The summit of Ward Hill, eventually reached, gave fine views over to Sanday and Stronsay.  The return passage across the Stronsay Firth was close hauled with wind against tide, fast but uncomfortable.  The visibility deteriorated just as the navigation became tricky, and it was cold.  For the second time Shapinsay was passed without landing.  Back in Kirkwall, dinner ashore.

5/7/06   Kirkwall

20 l of diesel was bought from the very helpful oil depot and fetched in bottles (about 2 l short of full).  We were then joined by Colin, who took us for a run to visit the famous Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm.

then gave us the use of his car while he went to a meeting in St. Margaret’s Hope.  Adrian and I then drove to the fascinating Tomb of the Eagles

and rejoined Colin for lunch in the pub.  Back at Kirkwall Colin plugged in his laptop and used the boat as an office while we visited St. Magnus’ Cathedral

and the town museum.  We then drove to the closest access point for doing Ward Hill which gave us a fine view of Hoy Mouth in rather more gentle mood.

On the way back we briefly visited the Ring of Brodgar.

After re-grouping we had dinner in the Chinese, then pints in a “theme pub”.

6/7/06   Kirkwall to Home

Colin left early to catch the Westray ferry, then Adrian and I took the bus to Burwick, ferry to John o’ Groat’s,

bus to Thurso,

train to Inverness then train to Stirling where SWMBO picked us up.

11/7/06   Home to Kirkwall

By myself this time, bus to Glasgow, train to Inverness, train to Thurso, free taxi to John o’ Groats (via Castle of Mey),

ferry to Burwick then bus to Kirkwall.

12/7/06   Kirkwall

After doing some shopping, I paid for another two nights berthing, and then sat out bad weather in the marina as it blew W 6/7.

The wireless museum was visited – very interesting.  Amongst the many fascinating objects was a 1960s  juke box from the Pomona Café: I could remember almost all of the selection of music on offer – sad or what?

13/7/06   1505 – 2020   Kirkwall to Westray   29.5 nm

After impatiently waiting for the wind to drop, I eventually left in a declining W6.  Adverse tide in The String was followed by favourable up the lee side of (still unvisited) Shapinsay with the wind now NW5.  Through Eday Sound then Calf Sound (4.5 knot tide) in smooth water, then I met big seas at the north entrance.  Motor assistance was required to make any way, and a very wet passage followed.  The seas gradually diminished as closing Westray reduced the fetch, and the wind dropped to NW3.  Tied up at Pierowall marina and was met by Colin and James.  A late night followed, with dinner in the pub and subsequent drams.

14/7/06   0835 – 1740   Pierowall to Papa Westray to North Ronaldsay to Sanday   28.2 nm

A pleasant reach in SW3 took me to South Wick, Papa Westray where I picked up a VB.  Ashore (without my camera, annoyingly) I did the hill while fending off skuas, then visited the Knap of Howar – Europe’s oldest house, apparently.

Another good reach took me over to North Ronaldsay, but with some foul tide and a quite lumpy sea.  Anchoring fairly near the pier gave a slightly marginal dinghy trip ashore in the onshore S4.  A quick walk to the high point was followed by a hard row back to the boat.

I then motored across to Sanday where a long dinghy trip (using electric outboard) over the shallow bay was followed by an even longer walk to The Wart.  The boat was finally rejoined at 2200 for a very late dinner aboard.

15/7/06   0840 – 1510   Otters Wick to Fara to Linga Holm    29.0 nm

Motored out of Otters Wick in S2 with some genoa assistance, then a long close hauled leg in S3 took me past Holms of Ire and Red Head.  After motoring between Red Holm and Eday I anchored off the jetty on Fara.

The hill was easy, but the whole island was absolutely covered in sheep sh!t: I towed my sandals behind the boat for an hour afterwards.  Favourable tide gave fast progress motor sailing down the west side of Eday then, entering St. Catherine’s Bay, I passed a rather fine gaff cutter that was leaving.

Linga Holm was quickly visited – more views of the Sanday turbines – then an early dinner after a peaceful G&T sitting in the sun and watching the seals.

16/7/06   0745 – 0920   St. Catherine’s Bay to Whitehall Harbour   7.2 nm

I motored with genoa through Linga Sound in S3 to Papa Sound, and then motored into the harbour where I picked up the VB.  I had heard tales of problems with the monks on Papa Stronsay, so I planned my visit carefully.  I could not see anybody moving about outside of the monastery,

so I quickly paddled to the beach and headed up the wee hill before I could be intercepted.  Sure enough, on my way back I was accosted by two of the monks.  A frank discussion on the legal situation regarding operation of the Scottish Access Legislation ensued, but I fear no meeting of minds was reached.

The row back against S4 was very wet.  I fitted the outboard then crossed to the pier.  The pub wasn’t open and had no notice of when and what food was on offer, but did exhibit an impressive rant on the “fascist” Scottish Executive’s requirement that the pub must display no smoking signs!

To reach Stronsay’s high point involved another fair hike.  On the way I noticed corn drying in a way I hadn’t seen anywhere else:

I had managed to get broken shell under my sandal straps on Papa Stronsay and, although I had washed it all out under the toilet tap at Whitehall, the pressure points were uncomfortable and bleeding.  Then, having just walked round a left hand bend on a single track road, I heard a Land Rover coming up behind me.  I stepped on to the right hand verge to let him pass, which he did, but I was then struck hard on the back of my legs by something which neatly took the feet from under me.  As I got up I discovered that he’d been towing a metal sledge on a bit of chain and on cornering it had swung wide.  He stopped, saying “I saw you fall over”, but seemed to have some difficulty in understanding that what had happened was in any way caused by him.  He sounded English rather than Orcadian.  A lift would have been appreciated but was not offered.

I limped on, with pink foam squishing from between my toes, and then had trouble reaching the island’s high point because of crops and barbed wire.  In trying to find another approach the road network did not agree with my (admittedly very old) map.  This was becoming “Not a Good Day”.  I was almost giving up when I eventually spotted a way over pasture and the very flat “summit” was then quickly reached – which only left the two hour walk back to Whitehall.

The pub was open but not serving food, so I settled for a pint and a bag of crisps.  Three large yachts had now arrived at the pier, but fortunately had not used my dinghy as a fender.   Back aboard I plastered up my leg and washed the blood out of my jeans while consuming a large G&T, then made dinner.  This had been the last island bagging day and by far the hardest.  Could it be the curse of the mad monks?

17/7/06   0830 – 1855   Whitehall Harbour to Wick   60.9 nm

After motoring out I had a good close reach in the SW4 for a couple of hours.  The sea was very lumpy and uncomfortable, however, and the visibility was deteriorating.  The wind then died to a light breeze so the rest of the day was spent motor sailing.  At one point I had a quite close crossing with the Fishery Protection Vessel seen the previous week.  Poor visibility crossing east of the Pentland Firth was not fun, and I hoisted a second radar reflector which may or may not have helped, but I only saw one large container ship, crossing well behind me.  As the Caithness coast drew near the gloom cleared and revealed three other yachts also heading for Wick.  No HM to direct berthing so I rafted outside two foreign yachts that looked unoccupied.  Dinner in pub and I discovered from the telly that a new Middle East war was raging and most of the UK was having a heat wave.  In Wick it drizzled.

18/7/06   0650 – 1710   Wick to Portmahomack    50.4 nm

No access to showers and no HM to collect berthing fee.  Sunshine and light winds for much of the day meant mostly motoring.  In the afternoon SE3 gave a pleasant beam reach for an hour or so.  I anchored near the pier and had a shower in the cockpit before dinner in the pub – sitting inside to escape the sun.  The anchorage proved quite bouncy, not helped by water skiers etc.

19/7/06   0805 – 1500   Portmahomack to Inverness    34.1 nm

Another day of motoring in light winds.  I ran into quite dense fog in the southern Moray Firth which wasn’t pleasant.  It came on so quickly that I had no time to deploy my “foot pump in cockpit with hose to horn on pulpit” gadget, so I mournfully blew to myself every minute for an hour or so.  Thankfully it cleared at the entrance to Invergordon.  Fort George showed to advantage: red flags flying and I could hear automatic weapon firing, but not (I hoped) to seaward.

Just before the Kessock Bridge I was spoke by the ILB but was unable to help in their search for a missing boat.  VHF exchanges reported traffic jams on the bridge as drivers stopped to look at dolphins, but they were gone before I arrived.  I tied up to the last available visitor berth at Inverness Yacht Haven (although a Norwegian boat subsequently left), booked in at the office for two days berthing, and then filled with water.  Dinner in pub then boarded the London Sleeper.

21/7/06   1110 – 1700   Inverness to Dochgarroch    8.0 nm

Off the sleeper, then did some minor shopping.  Once the tide allowed, I motored round to Clachnaharry sea lock then up the locks to Muirtown Basin.  Berthed at the pump and took on 42.2  l of diesel.  In the process a fender made a bid for freedom and was quite unwilling to be retrieved.  Moved to a visitor berth and spliced the snapped fender rope while awaiting the arrival of James and Angie.  They arrived just before a locking so we set off almost immediately up the Muirtown flight and tied up for the night at Dochgarroch.  Dinner aboard.

22/7/06   0720 – 1650   Dochgarroch to Great Glen Water Park    26.0 nm

After an early start, we motored the length of Loch Ness in light, following wind, weather overcast but gradually clearing.  After a brief VHF conversation with an accompanying safety boat, we passed a chap lying on a surf board and slowly paddling up the loch(!)

On arrival at Fort Augustus it was not at all obvious what was happening.  The VHF wasn’t answered and no lock keepers could be found.  After half an hour, (tea break?), they appeared en mass and announced a locking, whereupon all waiting boats made a rush for the bottom lock.   Fortunately it was big enough for all of us.  The ascent of the staircase took over an hour, after which we had lunch in a pub.  Kintra and Cullochy locks followed, and then we motored down Loch Oich, stopping for the night at the pontoons of the Great Glen Water Park.  Dinner in the restaurant.  One slight problem here: after the restaurant shuts for the night there are no toilets available until mid morning.

23/7/06   1000 – 1550   Great Glen Water Park to Banavie    18.5 nm

After a leisurely start we motored down Laggan Avenue then through Laggan Locks into Loch Lochy, after first taking advantage of the excellent showers at the locks.  In the loch we sailed for about an hour, fast beating with 2 reefs into SW5/6 on flat water – great!  One hat lost overboard.  We had planned to stop at Letterfinlay Lodge for lunch, but couldn’t find a jetty and the hotel looked shut, so had lunch aboard instead.  After motoring out of the loch and down the pleasant stretch of canal to Banavie, we tied up to a jetty just above the top lock of Neptune’s Staircase, with a fine view of Ben Nevis.

We could have carried on to Corpach, but previous advice had been that Banavie was safer, and it was indeed a pleasant spot with good showers and a reasonable hotel – in which we had dinner.

24/7/06   Banavie

After we all walked into Fort William, James and Angie caught the Inverness bus to retrieve Angie’s car.  I watched “The Jacobite” steam train depart then visited Nevisport and the book shop.  I was thinking of buying new lightweight summer walking boots, since I have a number of existing pairs, all of which leak.  After spending some time looking at overpriced boots inspiration struck: instead of new boots I bought a pair of waterproof socks which can be used with any of the leaky boots!   We’ll see how well the theory works out in practice…

I took the train back to Banavie, and did some odd jobs before James and Angie returned to unload their belongings.  After their departure I just had time for a shower and change of clothes before catching the train back to Fort Bill.  There I had a pint before boarding the London Sleeper.

28/7/06   1300 – 1815   Banavie to Loch Eil   8.4 nm

Annoyingly the incoming sleeper has no onward connection, so I walked to Banavie in the rain.  The boat was undisturbed, which removed one slight nagging worry.  An upward locking had just started and took until lunchtime to complete.

By then there were another three boats wanting to go down.  I expected that dealing with this operation single handed wouldn’t be easy and indeed it wasn’t.  The top lock gave a deceptive impression: position the boat, hand the lines to a lock keeper who passes them round mooring hooks and hands them back: easy.  And it would have been easy in the subsequent locks if I’d been at the front of the formation, but I wasn’t.  The lock walls slope up at the middle of each subsequent chamber, so that lines must be thrown up from a boat positioned at the back.  Not at all easy, and a pantomime ensued of fishing ropes out of the water, re-coiling, throwing again, while simultaneously trying to stop the boat drifting off, all providing lots of spectator value.  Towards the middle of the flight a chap from Orkney took pity on me, and walked my lines through three chambers.  I should have used this technique myself, but after the top lock there was never access to a ladder while the boat was secured, so I couldn’t safely make the transition ashore.

However all things, even Neptune’s Staircase, eventually end, and most relieved I was.  The remaining locks to Corpach Basin were easy, and I was let into the sea lock to await the tide.

“The Jacobite” passed, making a nice picture of canal architecture and steam, with Ben Nevis as backdrop.  After there was enough height of tide to allow the gates to open I was released and, rather than buck the flood, I chose to go with it through the narrows to Loch Eil.  This was very scenic, although my first choice of anchorage was overlooked by a smelly landfill site to windward – not what you really expect in the middle of otherwise unspoiled country.  The head of the loch was an acceptably peaceful alternative, given the light wind.

29/7/06   0925 – 1745   Loch Eil to Puildobhraoin   43.2nm

Departure was timed to catch the start of the ebb at the narrows, and Loch Eil was transited in flat calm, The Ben sitting above its reflection.

After Fort Bill a strengthening, but very fluky, Southerly allowed motor sailing down Loch Linnhe.  By the Corran narrows sailing had become entertaining, but by Lismore the weather had deteriorated and after Kerrera progress was made by motoring straight into driving rain, S 5/6 and poor visibility.  I anchored in Puildobhraoin at the second attempt and was very glad to get out of the rain.  A very wet night followed.

30/7/06   0950 – 1225   Puildobhraoin to Craobh   11.2 nm

In much drier weather but with a contrary wind I motored round Easdale Island and through Cuan, the latter quite exciting with the ebb running at full tilt.  I arrived at Craobh as the huge West Highland race fleet emerged from the marina – a bit like trying to run across a motorway – which gave a quite intimidating end to the trip!

Summary:   It had been a long and rather complicated trip.  The outward leg up the spectacular North West coast was splendid, and exploring the Orkneys was fun. The weather was kind in the main, and there were no significant gear failures.  All transport deadlines were met, and the summits of 26 new islands were reached.

773nm logged in 170.3h (4.5kn average) of which 104.2h motoring.

2005 Summer Cruise - Posted at 7:55 PM on Apr. 4, 2006 by DaveS

30/6/05   2105 – 2305   Craobh to Puildobhraoin   11.6nm

With Adrian.  Yet another summer trip started in a rush.  This time an annoyingly altered meeting date put our start back by a day, then a nasty deep depression was forecast.  We should just about have time to get to Lochmaddy (where Robert planned to join us) before its arrival but there would be very little margin – so no hanging about, then!  As soon as everything could be piled on board we motored out and headed for Cuan, stowing as we went.  The genoa gave some assistance in the SW3, and in other circumstances the motor would have been off.  Dusk arrival in Puildobhraoin, quick snack, quicker dram and asleep by midnight.

1/7/05   0455 – 1940   Puildobhraoin to Loch Skipport   88.5nm

Up at first light and off under motor and genoa in SW4 across the Firth of Lorne and up the Sound of Mull.  In the Sound the wind dropped to SW1 for a time, but by the time we cleared the western entrance it was back to SW4 giving us a cracking beam reach with the engine finally silenced.  The wind stayed steady for the rest of the day, and the sea was, at most, moderate so the boat slipped along at or near to hull speed, making little fuss about it.  We opted for the direct route past Oigh Sgeir to Loch Skipport, where we reckoned that Wizard Pool should give reasonable shelter if the depression arrived early and we had to sit it out.  If, however, it was still performing on schedule, then another early start (after a decent sleep, however) should see us in Lochmaddy before it arrived.

One boat was in the Pool before us – a proper long distance cruising sort – and, after we anchored, they hailed to invite us aboard for a drink.  In any other circumstances this would have been most welcome, but our dinghy was still deflated and we had wanted to keep it that way until Lochmaddy.  There was also the time issue: we badly wanted our dinner, sleep, and an early start in that order.  After a few more shouted exchanges, however, they rowed over to us, and we felt quite mortified as we helped aboard what turned out, in fact, to be a distinctly elderly couple.  Some glasses of wine later we felt a bit better, as we were able to show them the forecast chart of the expected depression – which wasn’t yet being mentioned on the Shipping Forecast, and the extra warning might allow them to shift or reinforce their anchorage as they felt best.  Several more glasses of wine later and we really had no choice but to start cooking dinner.  Dusk had long fallen by the time we rather anxiously saw our guests safely back on their own boat.  So much for the early night.

2/7/05   0620 – 1040   Loch Skipport to Lochmaddy   24.0nm

Waking up was desperately hard, and we missed our planned c. of d. start.  Motor sailing all the way in E3 we arrived in Lochmaddy to find all the VBs taken.  We settled for an anchorage in the middle of South Basin, carefully selecting a spot combining shelter with a reasonable offing from all shores, since each in turn would be to leeward as the wind veered.  The anchor seemed to be holding firmly as I steadily built up reverse revs but, just before reaching full power, it suddenly started dragging.   Now I have experienced similar behaviour in apparently solid holding on a number of occasions over the years, and I had started to question the merit of excessive motoring to “dig it in”.  The alternative theory of leaving the thing alone (other than a moderate pull to check that it was actually hooked into the bottom and not fouled) seemed increasingly attractive.  Certainly the solid mud brought up on the recovered anchor seemed good quality.  We re-laid, carefully checked there was no movement with sustained half astern revs, then shut down the engine.  This would certainly test the theory.

Dinghy inflated, we were propelled the mile to the landing place by the electric outboard.  Not very fast but quiet.  The wind was still E3 but with some stronger gusts and it was raining steadily.  After a brief shopping trip and a quick lunch in the pub the rain was heavy and the wind was E4 gusting 5.  A combination of rowing and motor assistance took as a slanting course to windward over the now choppy water back to the boat.  It was a hard row: without the motor it would have been quite exhausting.  We hoisted the dinghy on to the davits and lashed it in place, then checked that all other loose gear was well tied down.  The mainsail cover was put on and lashings applied over it; the rolled genoa was also lashed.  We were in 5m depth and had 35m of 8mm chain out to the 16kg Delta.  We would see…

By 2000 the wind had risen to E9 gusting 10.  The fetch up Loch Maddy was making the boat bounce in the swell, as well as yaw wildly; each yaw ending with a sickening roll as the wind pushed us over.  We were thrown about the cabin and the screaming in the rigging was hard on the nerves.  The chart plotter was left on in “anchor watch” mode to alert us if we started dragging.  Although there was little chance of falling asleep, it provided more than just added reassurance: no usable transits were available after dark.

Around 2200 the wind veered, eventually settling at SW8.  Without the fetch the motion eased noticeably, but some swell still ran in for an hour or two.  Other than moving round on her chain, the boat’s position appeared to be unchanged.

3/7/05   Lochmaddy

At 0400 we had SW9, and by 0600 this had veered to NW9 gusting 10.  This was evidently a well behaved, classic deep depression.  Again there was no sign of real boat movement, but the screaming in the rigging rose an octave as each gust hit.  As is so often the case the strong and gusty NW wind then persisted, only slowly reducing through the day: F8 at 1200, F7 at 1800, F6 at 2200.  By now the noise and motion were relatively negligible and sleep followed quickly.

4/7/05   1330 – 1855 Lochmaddy to Cheese Bay, Hermistray, Rodel   16.5nm

We woke to a fine clear day and assessed the damage on deck.  The (replacement – see 1/5/05) anchor strop was gone, as were the lashings from the genoa and some of those from the main.  There was a small tear in the main where part of the cover had flogged, and much abrasion was evident everywhere.  The dinghy was OK, thankfully.  We recovered the anchor with great difficult, tripping the over-current breaker in the process.  When it eventually emerged, it was evident that it had been very deeply buried - and obviously subjected to far more force than motoring against it could possibly achieve.  Convinced by this admittedly one-off, but fairly dramatic test, I have never since set the anchor using more than half revs.  We then headed for the VBs but were immediately startled by an alarm – the forgotten anchor watch was doing exactly what it had been asked to!

We rafted up to one of the moored boats and compared experiences, then collected Robert when the Ullapool ferry arrived – the first crossing in 24 hours.  Later, over a quick pint in the pub, we talked to the single hander who was on the very close-in VB.  With no possibility of manoeuvring clear if his mooring had parted, he had spent the night wearing a life jacket and a small sac of valuables, ready to jump ashore the moment his boat piled up.  In the event his mooring proved OK, but the experience had left him most unhappy.

Departing in a brief gust of SW5, we exited the loch and ran north in SW4, then felt our way into Cheese Bay.  After a brief lunch stop we crossed to Hermistry, “did” the island, then broad reached across the entrance to the Sound of Harris in S4.  We transited the shallow entrance to Rodel harbour rather gingerly and picked up a VB.  An excellent meal in the recently-renovated pub followed.

5/7/05   0755 – 1825   Rodel to Ensay to Killigray to Taransay   26.1nm

We motored out of Rodel and through the Stanton Channel in SE2, carefully observing the series of long transits and comparing the plotter image with reality, before diverting to Ensay.  After a quick ascent followed by lunch we then motored through the rather tortuous channel to Killigray.  The anchorage here was tidal – 2.4nm logged while at anchor!  Another quick ascent.  On the summits of both islands Robert used the locally good mobile phone reception to negotiate a job change in Edinburgh – a weird juxtaposition of subjects and places.  We motored then sailed past Toe Head as the wind increased to NW3, anchoring in Loch na-h-Uidhe on Taransay.

6/7/05   1630 – 1820   Taransay to Loch Leosavay   9.5nm

We spent a fine day exploring Taransay: had good views of the Harris hills from the summit, attempted to spot St. Kilda, and - for the really dedicated collectors of oddities – located the 000000 National Grid reference, one of only 6 in Scotland (on land at any rate).  Spirits – and everything else – were somewhat dampened, however, by the swamping of the dinghy in the deceptively mild looking surf as we tried to get off the beach.  Fortunately the day was warm and sunny, and the boat was festooned with drying garments as we motor sailed in NW3 to Loch Leosavay.

On the way in a very grand looking big house could be seen, complete with cannons guarding the lawn.  A local confirmed that it was a sort of hotel – but not the sort that has a public bar!  The river beside it has been modified to form a series of fishing pools, and we lost count of the number of “private”, “no entry” etc. notices dotted around.  The village round the harbour has one shop which we tried to visit, but it is apparently open only on Monday mornings!  Dinner aboard.

7/7/05   1445 – 1755   Loch Leosavay to Soay Mor to Tarbert   7.7nm

After a wet night the clouds were down to the sea so the planned day on the Harris hills was abandoned.  A long lie was followed by a gentle sail up West Loch Tarbert in W3, pausing to “do” Soay Mor en route.  There we watched MV “Von” loading bags of feed into automated fish farms.  At Tarbert we anchored and had dinner in one of the pubs, where a television gave continuous news of the London suicide bombings.

8/7/05   0650 – 1510   Tarbert to Plocrapool   43.1nm

After dropping off Robert to catch the 0730 ferry to Ullapool we set off down the loch, motor sailing in steady rain.  A steady beat in S4 took us slowly past Toe Head to the beginning of the Stanton Channel where we again motor sailed through in favourable tide but poor visibility.  All transits were of course invisible and the plotter really came into its own.  We did not follow it blindly, however, but continually checked that what we could see of the real world agreed with the electronic version, and that sounded and plotted depths were also in reasonable agreement, etc.  I was very concious, however, that we were effectively ”flying on instruments” much of the time, and that attempting conventional navigation in these conditions would have been extremely difficult.  A sobering thought.

Once through the Sound we looked longingly at Rodel, but there was insufficient height of tide to get in so we carried on: a broad reach up the Harris coast in SE5 and a roughening sea.  The by now quite heavy quartering sea made dropping sail difficult before entering into Plocrapool which, once in, gave a very sheltered calm anchorage.  Dinner aboard as the very wet weather continued.  [I discovered later that my best man's brother lives in Plocrapool: when we were there we could barely see the houses.]

9/7/05   0655 – 1625   Plocrapool to Crowlin Harbour   51.3nm

An early start was an unattractive proposition: still wet with poor visibility.  We were starting to run out of time, however, so had to press on.  The forecast SW proved to be S4: fine for crossing the Minch – a fast reach across to Trodday then past the N end of Rona – but not for making southerly progress thereafter.  Beating down the E side of Rona, double reefed, the main split between the 2nd and 3rd reef points about an inch away from the repaired 22/8/04 split.  Like then, this allowed us to use the sail with the third reef  in, which was reasonably OK for the prevailing conditions but likely to be a major nuisance later.  As the wind dropped, to make any sort of sensible progress motor sailing was resorted to, then motoring straight to windward, the boat slamming hard in the very bouncy conditions.  At least the rain had by now stopped.

The N entrance to Crowlin harbour gave good sheltered anchorage.  A trip ashore to ”tick off” the summit took rather longer than anticipated, and we only just recovered the dinghy before the rising tide carried it off.  Another boat arrived during dinner and surprised us by anchored in the shallows inside us: we hoped he could take the ground.

10/7/05   0830 – 1950   Crowlin Harbour to Tobermory   64.9nm

Recovering the anchor involved manoeuvring quite close to our neighbour, and while closely watching him, and also Adrian’s signals from the bows, I suddenly became aware of an otter playing on the rocks.  For a minute I didn’t have enough eyes to go round!  After clearing Crowlin we spent an hour sailing close hauled towards the bridge in S4 and laying the course – just.  Then the wind died, blanketed by Skye, and we motor sailed through the Kyles.  Once clear we hoped to lay Ardnamurchan in the S wind, but we found SW4: dead on the nose.  This is the sort of thing I hate: hammering dead to windward and drinking diesel to keep to a schedule in conditions that would (with undamaged sails, admittedly) have given a much pleasanter – and more comfortable – beat.  We were making higher VMG, however, as we proved by overtaking a number of sailing boats near Eigg, but still we envied them, felt curiously ashamed, and avoided eye contact.

The wind eased at Ardnamurchan then, in the western entrance to the Sound we found thick fog: unusual for these parts and not at all welcome.  We crept along the northern coastline, keeping far enough in to be (hopefully) out of the path of MacBrayne or anything else of substantial size.  I considered calling the Coastguard and asking if they knew of any reported movements in the area, but didn’t really like to somehow.  At some point we would, of course, have to cross to the south side.  Fortunately a brief clearance appeared, and we quickly scuttled across.  Tobermory was basking in the evening sun in almost flat calm.  We found an anchorage: 38m scope in 22m depth (!), checked that we had sufficient diesel for the last leg, then had dinner ashore.

11/7/05   0620 – 1415   Tobermory to Craobh   37.5nm

An early start in S1.  Soon after entering the Sound we again found fog banks.  Again we kept close in, following the contours along the Mull shore.  I rigged the mechanised fog horn: a mouth trumpet tied to the pulpit and connected by hosepipe to a dinghy inflater on the cockpit sole.  A foot placed on the latter gives a “parp” which is far enough away to not drown out other sounds.  After a while we heard a series of answering “parp”s from the Morvern side.  A sudden clearance showed the source of these to be two other yachts – and also revealed a coaster travelling at full speed up the Sound and making no signals at all.  A few more days like this would add radar to the “must have” list!

Near Craignure the fog lifted and a hot afternoon followed.  The Firth of Lorne was crossed in flat calm: we took advantage of this to strip off and bundle up the torn main.  Back at Craobh we took on 60l of diesel.

Summary:   It had been something of a roller coaster of a trip: sleep deprivation, a severe gale, poor visability, gear failure and seemingly endless motoring to windward.  On the other hand the fast Minch crossings had both been memorable, and we had got to the summits of 5 new islands.

380nm logged in 70.2h (5.4kn average) of which 49.1h motoring.

2004 Summer Cruise - Posted at 9:49 PM on Mar. 19, 2006 by DaveS

1/7/04   0920 – 1630   Craobh to Tobermory   36.1nm

With Adrian.  After some initial excitement chasing a lost halyard, we sailed up to Cuan in SW4.  With motor assistance for the passage through it was extermely interesting to observe how the soundings on the new high resolution digital chart compared with reality – until the appearance of a boat coming the other way as we approached the Cleit meant that a more direct approach to pilotage was required!  A fast broad reach in SW4 took us to Duart then a close reach let us sail up most of the Sound of Mull without tacking.  In Tobermory we found an anchorage in 17m (!) and we met our ex-neighbour from Craobh, Dawn of Wessex.  Dinner in the new pub.

2/7/04   0620 – 1525   Tobermory to North Harbour, Barra   55.3nm

We motored out of Tobermory and along the north coast of Mull until clear of blanketing land when a steady S4 gave us a splendid broad reach across the Minch.  A course to N. Harbour gave best boat speed, and it was a new anchorage, so that was fine.  A fast, and not too bumpy crossing.  After anchoring clear of the fishing boats we rowing ashore to find the pub - which was undergoing renovations and had no food.  So a couple of pints and bags of crisps served as aperatifs for dinner aboard.

3/7/04   1720 – 1910  North Harbour, Barra to Hellisay   5.0nm

A walk ahore took us up Bein Eireathad and to the north end of the island where we watched a plane landing on then taking off from the beach “runway”.  After trying unsuccessfully to find somewhere to dump a rubbish bag, we eventually prevailed on a nice lassie in a holiday cottage.  A quick motor across to Gighay / Hellisay followed, whereapon the new (and only temporarily installed) forward looking sonar gadget failed at the critical moment leaving us to traverse the SE entrance using mk 1 eyeball.  Thankfully we avoided any bumps.  Once in the inland sea we had some difficulty reconciling reality with the Sailing Directions, but we eventually anchored in the right place at the second attempt.  In the silence after stopping the engine there was an overwhelming sensation that we were absolutely alone.

4/7/04   1820 – 1935   Hellisay to Acarsaid Mor, Eriskay   5.0nm

A morning row took us ashore to do Hellisay (very smelly rotting weed in the obvious landing place) and from the top we saw a fishing boat come in the NW entrance.  We then rowed across to Gighay and met the boat’s crew, who were fixing a sheep pen and most surprised to see anyone else, before doing the hill.  The row back against a W4 was hard work.  After gingerly leaving, again by the SE passage, we motor sailed over to Eriskay.  The VBs were taken so we anchored, the magic chart making finding a good spot particularly easy.

5/7/04   0820 – 1550   Eriskay to Stuley to Acarsaid Falaich, Ronay   35.2nm

A SW3 gave a run past the south end of South Uist, then a beam reach to Stuley where we anchored in the south part of the sound.  The hill took little time, then a beam reach in W4 with occasional showers took us past Benbecula to Flodday Sound.  We motored into the Sound, then cautiously through the narrow entrance into Acarsaid Falaich, a quite remarkable – and well named – place.  Ashore, a complicated route was required to reach the summit of Ronay, but the view was rewarding.  A dinghy trip across to Floddymore followed, with some hard rowing to return against the ebbing tide.  Drams in the cockpit allowed more appreciation of the anchorage along with quiet satisfaction at getting to the top of three islands in one day.

6/7/04   0810 – 1610   Ronay to Poll nan Gall to Lochmaddy   12.0nm

We were, annoyingly, now off the detailed coverage of the magic chart, so a couple of potentially embarrasing rocks were programmed in as “avoid” features before cautiously motoring through to the north end of Flodday Sound to Poll nan Gall.  Eavall gave a good, if somewhat damp, tramp up through thick vegetation with, again, a superb view from the summit.  On the way down we met a couple of DEFRA agency men who were trapping mink.  After re-tracing our route back out of Flodday Sound, we then had a reach in E 2/3 for an hour or so until the wind died before motoring into Lochmaddy.  After picking up a VB we visited the sights (artworks, “hut of the shadows” etc.) then had dinner in the pub.

7/7/04   0715 – 2035   Lochmaddy to Isay to Stein to Canna   39.4nm

A NE4 ruled out the planned trip to Harris so instead we had a splendid reach across to Skye.  After anchoring in the sound between Isay and Mingay we did Isay – a strange, abandoned place whose beach nevertheless yielded a useful plank.  This, after drilling to take ropes, would be handy for hanging outside the fenders when mooring against rough piers.  We then crossed to Stein, picked up a VB and had lunch in the pub.  The NE4 was too good to waste, however, so the planned stop at Dunvegan was abandoned, and we instead had a fast broad reach from Dunvegan Head to Canna.  Canna harbour was quite full – a dozen yachts and two fishing boats.

8/7/04   0940 – 1700   Canna to Loch Eatharna, Coll   32.9nm

We motored out in a light wind which persisted for an hour before gradually strengthening to the point where we could sensibly sail.  Steady N3 gradually strengthening to N4 gave a dead run with whisker pole and boom preventer rigged.  In Loch Eatharna we picked up the only unoccupied (and furthest out) VB which gave us a hard row ashore against the NW4.  Half way there we were taken pity on by a powered dinghy which gave us a tow.  A good night in the pub followed.  On leaving the wind had dropped and we had a calm row back.

9/7/04   0900 – 1435   Coll to Little Colonsay to Ulva   30.0nm

At 0800 there was a knock on the hull and a request for £10 mooring charge.  If we had known about that we would have anchored – free, and a lot closer to the pub!

[Apparently a local entrepreneur had "taken over" the ex-HIE buoys.  Since this visit the price escalated to £15, and allegedly £25 on some occasions.  Questions were raised about maintenance and insurance, and finally the moorings were dropped leaving the sea bed foul.  CalMac have now cleared the mess and laid new moorings (2011).  £10, pay at hotel or in honesty box on pier.]

The NE3 gave a broad reach through the Treshnish Isles and round Gometra to Little Colonsay.  After landing with some difficulty we climbed the hill – quite rough going, but a fine view – then had a hard row back.  After motoring across to Craigaig Bay we climbed Ben Chreagaig – easier going than expected and with magnificent viws from the top.  Dinner aboard.

10/7/04   0805 – 1710  Ulva to Craobh   51.6nm

A NW4 gave a beam reach past Staffa then a broad reach  / run down the Sound of Iona.  The wind fell light off Erraid then strengthened to give a good beam reach past the Garvellachs.  A run through the Sound of Luing was followed by another reach to Craobh.  Took on water and tidied up.  A good trip.

Summary

312 miles logged in 61.3 h of which 20.9 motoring.  5.1kn average.

9 new islands collected.

 

2003 Summer Cruise - Posted at 8:32 PM on Feb. 26, 2006 by DaveS

26/6/03   0755 – 1740   Craobh to Gott Bay   58.7nm

With Adrian.  The original idea was to use the S4 (actual and forecast) to gave us a fast reach down the Firth of Lorne, passing south of the Torran Rocks then an equally fast broad reach passing SW of Tiree directly for Berneray.  This plan was followed until reaching SW of Iona when it was reluctantly abandoned as the sea state became decidedly rougher, and a diversion was made to Tiree.  We hoped that with a bit of luck we would just be able to get some shelter behind the west headland of Gott Bay, particularly if the wind veered a little.  In fact it backed and we had very little shelter, and it was of course a lee shore which hardly made for relaxation.  It was debatable whether the motion would have been significantly worse if we’d carried on.  Not knowing a secure anchorage in these parts that gives shelter from the SE is a real nuisance: some day I really must make an exploratory visit to the bays on Tiree’s north coast.

27/6/03    0545 – 1935   Gott Bay to Berneray to Castlebay   59.8nm

Anchored on a lee shore in rising wind (SE6 by morning) precludes sleep, but fortunately the anchor showed no sign of budging.  Leaving as soon as there was sufficient light, we had a very rough departure: under motor initially, labouring direct to windward out of the bay until well clear of all the rocks, then motor sailing through Gunna Sound – at which point the wind switched to NW3!  Motor sailing continued in a now slight sea over to Berneray.

Anchoring beside the shelter rock, in the same spot as 2000′s abortive attempt, we made it ashore (over extremely slippery rocks at the bottom of the slip) and finally “did” Barra Head.  Scudding low cloud made the view somewhat limited, but the situation was still most dramatic.  Bits of seaweed and other evidence around the lighthouse buildings (190m) gave testimony to just what a winter storm straight off the Atlantic can do.  Finding the actual summit of Berneray (193m) at the top of the cliffs was quite difficult in the cloud.

On starting the engine I noticed a lack of water so replaced the impeller.  The old one had unglued itself from its bronze bush – an annoyingly common problem.  A NW4 wind slowly veering to N3 gave a mostly close reach passing east of Mingulay, Pabbay, and Sandray then through the Snua passage to Castle Bay.  Picked up a visitor buoy then dinner in the pub.

28/6/03   0805 – 1850   Castlebay to Flodday to Lochmaddy  52.8nm

The wind was clearly bending round the Barra hills because the NW3 quickly became NE2 after we came out into the (residual) Sound of Vatersay.  Thereafter we had a close hauled motor sail to Floddy.  After a difficult landing over lots of weed covered rock, Floddy gave a fine hill with super views.

Continuing NE past Eriskay we had a gentle sail in the sunshine during which I patched a smallish tear in the mainsail, then just before the entrance to Loch Maddy we had a sudden very heavy rain squall which blotted out most visability.  On reaching Lochmaddy the sun was again shining.  We picked up a VB, visited the local sights including the “hut of the shadows” – a fairly primitive camera obscura – and the various objet d’art near the pier.  Dinner in the pub, then drams aboard Islander II followed.  A fine evening.

29/6/03   0610 – 1630   Lochmaddy to Seaforth Island   49.2nm

A NE4/3 gave a mostly fast beat to Loch Seaforth entrance.  We stayed well off shore, partly to keep close to the rhum line, but also to avoid the banks of fog which stretched out from North Uist.  Once in the loch we motored into a N4 headwind.  Finding a sheltered anchorage wasn’t easy: after circumnavigating Seaforth Island we eventually settled for a little bay at its south end.  A pre-dinner stroll to the summit gave exceptionally fine views of the Harris hills and Lewis’s huge tract of 50:50 land / water mix.

30/6/03   0750 – 1925   Seaforth Is. to Aline Lodge to Loch Maaruig   6.9nm

Motoring past Seaforth Island again in N4 we then anchored at Aline Lodge as advised by the Pilot.  On dinghying ashore a local advised that better holding was to be had to the E “where the rocks are”.  Reckoning that we were happily dug into the sand where we were, and that the wind was off shore, we decided to stay put.  Walking down the road we quickly reached the Lewis / Harris boundary then carried on for a couple of miles before heading up to do a clockwise circuit of Clisham, Uisganaval Mor and Stulaval.  A really fine day, if decidedly sweaty, and from Clisham we had noticed with interest that Loch Maaruig was now free from the fish cages that had given us problems in 1999.

On returning aboard we therefore quickly motored round to Loch Maaruig in NE4 to reach a sheltered anchorage – N2 and flat water.  A quick shower in the cockpit while the dinner was cooking was wonderfully civilising.  After dinner drams were savoured under a still bright sky, but with the sun behind the heavily shadowed hills; calm air but no midges - magic!

1/7/03   0755 – 1850   Loch Maaruig to Shiants to Loch a’ Bhraige   41.7nm

A N4 gave a fast, close hauled crossing to the Shiants.  We anchored on the west side of the double beach then dinghied ashore.  The climb up to the summit of Garbh Eilean was quite something.  The first part was steep, but rocky with good holds.  Thereafter followed an expanse of high angled dry grass, with few positive holds and no protection from the very obvious drop below.  A slip simply wasn’t permissable.   The last part up a steepish gully was better.  On top, occasional bonxies flying blind round rocky corners at chest height were a distinct hazard.  The views from the summit were stunning, but slightly spoiled by thoughts of the descent to come.  In the event, and taking it slowly, it wasn’t too bad – although I was concious throughout that I was very much looking down on to the top of Avilion’s mast!

After lunch a NE4 gave us a fast broad reach past Eilean Trodday into the sound of Raasay – accompanied by about 10 dolphins which played around us for several minutes.  We anchored in Loch a’ Bhraige just off the high, but well fendered, naval pier.  A chap from the shore station advised us that we could tie up to it if we wanted since no boats were due, but since we’d already anchored by then we declined.  This may have been a mistake since they probably get few visitors, and perhaps we missed a good party – who knows?  Quiet night.

2/7/03   0615 – 1350   Loch a’ Bhraige to Isleoronsay   43.1nm

After an early start to catch the tide a N4 gave a fast sail round Raasay then under the Skye Bridge and through the Kyles.  The approach to Isleoransay was squally, but we eventually anchored successfully after some difficulty reconciling reality with the sailing directions.  Once ashore we had a quite lengthy walk then whisky was purchased, the art gallery visited, showers obtained in the hotel then dinner.

3/7/03   0940 – 1755   Isleornsay to Tobermory   41.3nm

A NW3 gave a broad reach to Ardnamurchan with the cruising chute making an appearance for a while.  Motoring was necessary from Ardmore as the wind died.  In Tobermory harbour we found a spot to anchor, close to, but not in, the fairway, then dinghied ashore to the beach beside the pier, convenient for the Mishnish where we tried to get dinner.  Adrian is vegetarian and the Mishnish could unfortunately offer nothing suitable.  “How about an omelette, then?”  “I’ll have to check … I don’t think chef does omelettes … no, sorry.”  Nor was there any decent beer for sale.  “There’s not much demand…”  After pointing out that there were actually very few customers, and that some of these facts might possibly be related, we left sadly, remembering many previous good nights in theMishnish’s better days.

The new pub beside the dinghy park on the other hand had plenty of good food and drink on offer so it got our custom instead - it was pretty busy, so clearly ours was not an isolated view.  Back at the dinghy we evicted the wee Weegies who had been using it as a convenient seat while eating their chips, then paddled back to Avilion.

4/7/03   0815 – 1805   Tobermory to Carna to Loch Aline   31.4nm

The favourable winds meant that we now had some time in hand, so a side expedition was added.  The NE4 gave us a fast close hauled sail past the Stirks into Loch Sunart, then some slow motoring took us past various rocks into the pool east of Carna.  Carna summit was another fine viewpoint.  After lunch we tacked downwind in NW4 down the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline for dinner in the pub.

5/7/03   0905 – 1555   Loch Aline to Craobh   29.1nm

A NE3 gave a broad reach down the Sound of Mull then the wind died in the Firth of Lorne so we motored for an hour before sailing through the Sound of Luing back to Craobh.  Water and 34.9l of diesel taken on.

Summary

414 miles logged in 79.6 h of which 31.3 motoring.  5.2kn average.

6 new islands collected.