The Gulgari Rip (aka The Hole in the Wall

Posted at 8:29 AM, Jul. 25, 2007

REPORT 32 - GOVE TO DARWIN

Posted at 8:25 AM, Jul. 25, 2007

GOVE TO RARAGALA ISLAND

11 Jul 07

I would like to start with a bit of an aside.  In the Army there was a problem with Time Safety Factors.  In the Army, other than murder and barrack room theft, the worse crime was to be late.  Other than very senior officers, no excuse for tardiness was acceptable.  In my own case, the situation suited me fine, as I have always liked to be on time.  In fact, punctuality could be said to be one of my most endearing qualities.  Admittedly, some of the women in my previous life would be more likely to use the term “anal-retentive”, amplified by a few expletive adjectives.  Even my own brother does not quite share my respect for punctuality, much to my own chagrin.

The problem in the Army, with its’ vertical command structure, the TSF problem is not amplified, but is multiplied.  Take, for example, the visit of the local Brigade Commander.  He will examine his diary and decide to make a low-key visit to a unit under his command.  Say a short parade and inspection of the troops at 9am (0900 for the military reader), followed by a spot of morning tea at the Officers’ Mess.  Nothing too early or strenuous for those concerned!  The Brigade Major informs the unit Commanding Officer, but advises him to be ready by say 0830 to ensure that the Brigadier does not catch them out.  AND THERE IS THE FIRST TSF.

The CO then calls in his Adjutant and Regimental Sergeant Major to make the plan.  They calculate the time needed to assemble the troops, do a bit of rehearsal, conduct a quick inspection and to address any deficiencies in the troops dress and bearing.  The adjutant opines that 0730 would be a good time to require the presence of the troops.  The RSM agrees, but suggests that 0700 would be better just in case some unforseen circumstance arise.  All concerned nod their heads sagely and the Squadron Commanders are informed to assemble at 0700.

The various Squadron Commanders consult the own staff and a similar dissertation occurs.  The Troop Commanders are informed in turn to be at the Squadron parade ground by 0600.  They in turn, not wanting to found wanting order the Corporals to have the soldiery to be ready no later than 0530.

The net result is that poor bloody soldier is up at 4am, ironing, starching and polishing to allow the Brigadier to enjoy a civilised parade and Morning Tea.  And, of course, being well-trained, well lead soldiers, there are no problems or faults requiring remediation.  This gives rise to the well known, in the military, phrase of “hurry up and wait”.  Not separated by any time, but issued continuously at short intervals.  By the time the poor digger has started to wait, you can guarantee that a hurry up is already heading his way.  It also leads to the favourite occupation of soldiers the world over; spending most of their day standing around with nothing to do but bitch about Army life and dream of jobs in the Public Service at twice the pay and half the work, AND NO BLOODY OFFICERS!

Now, what has rather long tale got to do with my cruising adventure.  At first glance, it would appear that I lack the essential ingredients that lead to a blow out in TSFs namely:

·        A hierarchical command structure,

·        A shared culture of punctuality, and

·        An inflexible deadline.

As a product of 27 years of the Army, combined with my natural inclinations, I seem to be able to overcome the first two within my own personality.  The third one does occasionally arise, even in a relaxed cruising life.

Departure from Gove involves a degree of choice, namely the route through the Wessel Islands.  There is the long, boring “go around the whole thing” route; The head South through the unchartered, shallow, Brown Strait; The middle of the road, some excitement, some distance saving, Cumberland Strait.  Finally, there is the Gugari Rip (AKA: the Hole In The Wall).  This route saves some 35 miles off the trip, which for us cruisers is virtually a days’ travel.   It is basically where one island has broken in two and the tides have ripped a narrow, shallow channel between two seas.  The Arrafura Sea has a tidal range of 7 metres, the Gulf is about 2 metres and the rise and fall are not coincident.  The main motivation though is bragging rights: “The Gugari Rip has been the foundation of many a yacht club “best yarn”, but with a little planning this passage can be one of the highlights of a voyage.  Who could resist that description.  Please note that the emphasis is mine.  I am not good at a little planning.  So the rip it was.

My planning was comprehensive and included “a degree” of TSF.  The rip is about ¾ of a mile long and around 50 metres wide, but not all of the width is available to a deep drafted yacht.  Tidal streams can run at up to 9 knots.  Further planning data was that it is 45 miles from Gove.  The best time to enter is the first hour of the ebb tide.  High tide is approximately one hour before that in Gove.  Also, Cape Wilberforce and the area to the Bromby Islands are best tackled on a flood tide.

With the above info in hand I drew up my plan.  The ideal time to enter was between 4 and 5pm.  At my planning speed it would take me ten hours to reach the rip.  At my planning speed, with apologies to Archimedes, I could, given an oar long enough and strong enough, have paddled Isa Lei at that speed. TSF 1 Given that I am in a trade wind area, I could rely on a 15-20 knot wind on the beam. TSF 2  As the trip through the rip would be better early rather than late, I decided to leave right on first light, which was around 0615, say 0600. TSF 3 It would take me about 30 minutes to get up have something to eat, tidy up and get under way.  Better set the alarm for 0500 just in case. TSF 3

Woke with the alarm and had breakfast.  No tidying to be done, did that last night.  Ready to go by 0530.  Sat around drinking tea until sunrise.  Up anchor and away!  My approaching to Cape Wilberforce coincided with that of the inter-island barge Frances Bay.  In order to ensure no close calls around the Cape, I stood off to allow her through first.  That probably cost me half an hour.  Thank god for the TSF credit built into my plan.  Unfortunately, I was still actually ahead of schedule.  The tide was still opposing the wind and the waves though small, were steep and nasty.  I had to gybe my way through the passage, against the flow.  There goes another half an hour.

The Malay Road would, in any other developed country be a tourist mecca.  It is about 5 miles wide and 12 long.  It surrounded by a dozen or so islands from the Bromby and English Company groups.  It has deep water, medium height rock cliffs and white sandy beaches.  There are lots of sheltered coves and good breezes.  There is some development on one island, but that is it.  I had some of the best sailing since I left Lake Macquarie almost two years ago.  Apart from the Frances Bay disappearing in the distance, I saw no other people.  The comment in my log is “magnificent”.  I wish I had come for a visit instead of sitting around in Gove.  Might still be there now if I had.

The 25 miles to the Rip was done at a speed in excess of 6 knots, with just the headsail up.  It was not a particularly pleasant trip, as the South-Easterly wind had the entire Gulf of Carpentaria to whip up a short, steep and inconsistent wave pattern.  Regardless, I was going to reach the Rip by about 2pm, a good two hours early.  I think that in total, I could of got up at 8am rather than the 5am that I did.  I started the engine, furled the sail and headed back out into deep water to kill a couple of hours.  Short, steep seas that are unpleasant when running before them are downright miserable to head into.

I therefore applied by not inconsiderable intellect to the situation.  I recalled from my basic navigation courses.  This states, in part, that the hour immediately before and after a high or low tide have the lowest rates of flow.  It follows then that if the best time to enter is the first hour of the ebb, then the last hour of the flood is the second best time.  This may and possibly is sound.  However, there are a couple of other factors to be considered.  Firstly, the guidance that I had received stated that the tide turned approximately one hour before Gove.  Secondly, that time of entry should be in the first hour, not completed in that hour and not necessarily at the start of the first hour.

Regardless, I pressed on.  The sea at the entrance was of a boisterous nature, but not a lot worse than that in the main body of water.  I further re-assured myself that things were turning my way as my speed over ground was faster than my speed through the water.  This gave hope that the tide was turning in my favour.  The water in the rip did in deed appear calmer than that outside.  When I was closer I realised that the water was calm because it was moving so fast that the wind had no opportunity to whip it into a wave form.  It was continually boiling and rolling and streaming, not presenting a surface for the wind to act on.  If you want a good description of this type of water, try “A Passage to Juneau” that I mentioned in previous reports.  He does a much better job than I possibly could.  I was still making headway and was, in any case, too committed to turn back.  My first concern was depth.  According to the sounder, the depth went from 33 metres down to 5 and then back up to 20, all within a single boat length.  It did this not once, but several times.  It seemed that every time I looked at it, the sounder was doing these incredible gyrations.  As there was absolutely nothing to be done about it, I gave up and just kept aiming for the centre of the channel.

My speed through the water was 5 knots while over the ground it was just 2.5.  When this dropped to under a knot, I increased the engine to full revs.  For a while that was okay, but the rip was not that easy to overcome.  In the centre it not only narrows, but it shallows as well.  I was trying not to worry and enjoy the view a bit.  Looking at the water rushing over the rock ledges, I noticed that the water was actually sloping, not in the direction favourable to my passage.  At about the same time I felt the sensation that I was going backwards.  One of the few sensations that day that was accurate!  I leaned on the throttle and managed to squeezed a few more revs out of her.  By this time speed through the water was nudging 6.7 while I started to get about 0.2 over the ground.  I edged along at about this speed for 15 minutes or so.  The engine started to heat up and I could smell burning oil, but there was little that I could do.  Eventually my speed over the ground went above 2 knots and I throttled back to more normal revs.

Once the speed was acceptable, I looked around at what is a very spectacular piece of real estate.  Again the pictures do not do it justice, but if you want better then come up and see for yourselves.

PHOTOS SEPARATE

Trust me that most of it was not this tranquil.

There is a very nice anchorage just a mile from the exit from the rip.  I had a bit of trouble getting the anchor to bite.  I think I was too close to the shore and was on a rock ledge.  By a quarter to five though I was anchored and thinking about dinner.

So, in summary, if it wasn’t for my TSFs, I could have slept until 8am, had a faster, safer trip, used less fuel and still arrived at about the same time.

All in all, a very challenging day.  If any of you want to hear the story live, just bail me up in a yacht club bar and I will gladly regale you with the full tale.  By then I may have even remembered some “extra” details that will had to the sense of adventure, and my own heroics.  In fact, now that I think about it, I am sure that some aboriginals through boomerangs at me.  No doubt trying to warn me of the perils of my undertaking.  And wasn’t there a crocodile trying to climb aboard, no wait, I lassoed it and made it tow me through the rip.  Yeah, that was it.

I am spending today, the 12^th at the anchorage.  The next leg is almost 200 miles and I want to be well rested.  Plus, after yesterday I am done with trying to make up time.  Carolyn, thanks for the speaking book.  I needed some human voices around me and it fits the bill.  I’m up to the 3^rd CD and it is very interesting.  If there is no hurry for it back, I might see if the folks are interested.  Speaking of books, I finally got my hands on Marcus Aurelius – Meditations.  It pathetic, it’s even worse than Tacitus.  So my ambition to read the classics hasn’t so much died as been murdered.  Anyone want the Penguin classic Meditations?

Last night, while listening to the Ipod, I was reminded of Bob Menzies.  No, I’m not going mad, just have a lot of time on my hands.  Bob was the Prime Minister of Australia and a famous anti-communist.  He was noted for his eyebrows, which were inherited by John Howard and for his devotion to Betty Windsor.  He is often quoted saying in reference to her (I’m not sure if she was QEII at the time, or just plain old Princess Elizabeth) “I did but see her passing by, but I will lover her until the day I die.  So, I was listening to the Ipod and Paul Robeson was on singing a song which featured that very line.  Now, Paul was a known communist sympathiser, if not an actual communist.  He was hauled up before the Committee on Un-American Activities.  I doubt very much that he would have gotten the idea for the song from Bob Menzies.  If he had heard of Menzies, it was probably in relation to the Petrov affair.  Therefore I have this wonderful feeling that Menzies, while bootlicking British royalty was probably quoting a known communist.

For the young ones out there who have no idea what I am talking about, yes, Kim, Peter, Sam and Daniel, I am talking about you.  These people and things like communists can be found in your history books.  They will appear somewhere between the Great War; the War to End All Wars and the Vietnam War, which was about three or four wars later.

RARAGALA ISLAND TO GOULBOURN ISLAND

13/14 Jul

Well, after the last trip, with challenges, bloody great sailing, lots of tensions and even deep thoughts, deep for me anyway, this passage was like extracting teeth, slowly.  In all honesty, nothing happened except some annoying changes of wind speed and consequently boat speed and time in transit.  My sail plan went from double-reefed main only to that, plus fully heady and engine.  About eight hours was engine only.  With the engine going I can’t even hear the music on the stereo.  My speed over the ground varied between 7.2 knots and 3.5 knots.  My time estimates were between 60 and 28 hours.  It actually took just under 33.  A few other boats are heading West, but all are using different routes, stopovers and timing.  Still, it is good to know that others are in the area.

Nth Goulburn Island has significant Aboriginal ceremonial aspects and I can’t go ashore.  A bit of a pity, as it looks quite pleasant.  About the only positive thing is that my phone works here.  Maybe the Aborigines need to tell one another when the ceremony is about to start.  That is all there is to say.  On to Croker Isle, manana!

GOULBOURN ISLAND TO CROKER ISLAND

16 JUL 07

The log says ****** all for this leg:  0630, Up Anchor, 1945 (quarter to eight, PM) Anchored Croker Island.  So, it was 58 miles in just over 13 hours with not much happening.  I had better tell some stories, otherwise the paying customers will feel cheated.

There is an old saying, “red sky at night, sailors delight, red sky at dawning, sailors take warning”.  Yes, I know that there is a version involving shepherds, but that would not have quite the same resonance, would it?  What I want to know is what the outcome is if you have a “red sky” both at dawn and dusk, but that is what I have been getting consistently of late.  Maybe it’s just the tropics, or maybe being in the deep north, it is the persistent red dust.  If my paranoia was a little more developed, I might think that it was me.  I can just see Hewie sitting up “there” saying I will make tomorrow a good day, better put on a red sunset to let the sailors (and shepherds) know.  Then, he wakes up, sees that the anchor on Isa Lei is being raised, panics and decides to send out an all points bulletin warning the sailors.  Don’t know where those shepherds fit in with this scenario.

Hey Carolyn, just heard that the speaking book you loaned me; Maos’ Last Dancer, is going to be made into a movie by Bruce Beresford(?).  They are going to do it in Australia.

The assembling of yachts for the rally to Indonesia continues apace.  I have been in the proximity of IC Red(?) (US) and Four Star (NZ) plus an un-named French boat.  I listen in on their radio conversations and have discussed various anchorages with them.  It is a bit of a case of the blind leading the blind though as we are all new to the area.  Haven’t actually spoken to the French boat, no one has.  Coastwatch called them, using a description that included their sail marking of “FRA”, which indicates that the boat has represented France in racing.  She did not respond to Coastwatch despite numerous calls.  Probably taking the stereotypical French response of ignoring anyone who does not speak French.  Subsequently, while in Darwin, I heard Customs and Quarantine calling a many yachts to arrange clearances.  Quite a few asked if the officials spoke French and seemed quite astonished to get a negative reply.  I think Darwin must be quite a revelation to some of these overseas tourists, not quite as sophisticated as they might expect of a state capital.

All these boats heading off OS have made me think again about my avowed intention of not doing the same.  It seems that it is only three days before they will make the first landfall.  I have done that just getting across the Gulf of Carpentaria.  To do it though, I would like to have a “significant other”.  I would also like a big, fast comfortable cat.  That’s a catamaran Deslee, not a flea bitten feral pest!  Unfortunately, purchasing a suitable cat would take away about 90% of the things that make me attractive to the opposite sex, and come to think of it the same sex.  Well, Isa Lei and I will just soldier on.  I think that I have now had a longer relationship with her than I have with any other female, apart from my mother.

FROM/AT:		Gove			TO:	Croker Island
DATES:		11 Jul 07				16 Jul 07
LAT:	110  1’.3S		LONG:	1320 33’.3 E
DISTANCE THIS REPORT		261	BEARING TO HOME:		134	DEG MAG
DISTANCE TOTAL:		3434	DISTANCE TO HOME:		1687	NAUT MILES

CROKER ISLAND TO PORT ESSINGTON - 17 JUL 07

A short trip today, it is only 34 miles.  Funny, when I started this voyage, 34 miles was about the maximum I would have attempted in a day sail.  I must be getting used to the distances that I have to do.  I heard a very feint broadcast from Darwin Coast Radio today.  Something about a strong wind warning.  Could not hear the details, but I know that Port Essington is very secure anchorage.  It was the original settlement in the Northern Territory, but is now abandoned.  I tried to pass the information on to Risen’ Shine, a cat that is heading East.  He has already shredded two mainsails and was worried about the wind picking up.  Unfortunately he was out of range.  I spoke to a passing freight barge.  He said that the wind would last for around three days and that deep into Port Essington was a good gunk hole.  He also promised to keep an eye out for Risen’ Shine.

Went into Kennedy Bay at Port Essington.  It wasn’t my first choice, but the one I was after is now given over to pearl farming and entry is prohibited.  Kennedy bay has the advantage of being close to the entry for an early start.

KENNEDY BAY TO ALCARO BAY – 18 JUL 07

Had an internal debate whether to go on today or wait out the weather.  The wind was not too strong and Alcaro is just over 30 miles away.  Tomorrow is the best opportunity for a while to round Cape Don.  I was still tossing it up when I overheard IC Red and Four Star bitching about the lack of wind and having to use their engines.  So off I went.

Again I had a pretty uneventful trip.  Used a double reef in the main and full heady and managed to do it in just over 12 hours.  One to two knots of tidal assistance is a great boon.  IC Red and Four Star called it a day at about 11am and headed into Trepang Bay.

The bays around this area are not great anchorages.  While they are at right angles to the prevailing wind, they are all V shaped and allow a fair swell in.  The main saviour is that the swell is not well developed and the seas are sloppy rather than regular.  Still it is uncomfortable at night.  I must be in the right spot though, there are three other yachts and a power boat already anchored up in here.

ALCARO BAY TO ADAM BAY – 19 JUL 07

This is the big one!  Around Cape Don and into Van Diemens’ Gulf.  Tides of six metres with correspondingly fast tidal flows.  The wind is contrary to the favourable tide and as I am going to head South, it will be on the nose, for the first time in over 12 months.  How do you tack again??  The contrary tide and wind ensures steep seas and the forecast is for 2 – 3 metres.

What a buzz!  Coming out of Alcaro with the double-reefed main and engine I was doing 10.4 knots over the ground.  As far as I know, this is the fastest that Isa Lei has gone since I have owned her.  The unnerving thing is that I have to “aim off” 45 degrees to achieve the direction I want to go and not end up on the shoals.  It will be a relief to get out into deep water and turn downstream.  Around Cape Don my depth sounder was bouncing between 94.0 and 2.8 metres.  I assume that the turbulent, frothy water was the cause rather than the actual depths below the keel.  I certainly hope so!

The engine is off and the headsail is fully unfurled.  The wind and the waves are off the Port beam and I am making a consistent 8 knots in the direction I need to go.  Normally, that would be a recipe for a fast, exciting, but thoroughly miserable trip.  Not this time!  I am only making 2-3 knots through the water and am gliding over those steep 3 metre waves, with enough momentum to carry me through.  I have only had three or so waves put spray over the cockpit and as it is about 30 degrees, they are more refreshing than annoying.  These conditions persisted for about five hours.  I had a long afternoon however as the tide changed and it became a fair slog to get to my anchorage.  The change of tide did calm the seas so it was comfortable, but boring.

ADAM BAY TO FANNIE BAY – 20 JUL 07

Aaahh, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.  If you sail to Darwin have a good tide Atlas.  Then read it and make sure that you understand it.  I completely cocked up today.  I was underway just after 6am with about 30 miles to go.  If I had read my tide Atlas properly, I would have left about three hours later and saved about 4 hours of engine time.  Essentially the tide was against me for all but two hours and the journey took ten hours.  It was the opposite of yesterday.  Speed through the water was 6-7 knots while over ground was 2-3.  I had the full heady up, no need for a main on such a short trip and the engine.  I tried doing without each of them, but that cost me more than two knots which meant I was just marking time.

Darwin is in sight, only another three or so hours to go.  Funny thing, I have not sighted another vessel since I left Alcaro Bay yesterday.  I had started to get a bit worried that I was completely off course.  I was intent on following the main shipping channel, but the two markers that I saw were, in my opinion, on the wrong side of the channel.  For a while I was worried, but could not see how I could be that far wrong.  As it was everything was fine and I arrived where I had intended, shame about the “when” part of the occasion.

Fannie Bay is always crowded, but it is chokas now.  As well as the usual crowd of itinerants like yours truly, there are the 125 yachts partaking in the Race and Rally to Indonesia.  I m