Rogoznica to Krka National Park to Split to Vis

Posted at 4:34 PM, Jun. 17, 2007

It is now Sunday 17 June and the spell of fine, hot weather with good sailing breezes continues and without the daily thunderstorms. Currently sailing from Otok St Klement which is just off the town of Hvar across to Otok Vis a passage of about 13 miles. Nice on the wind sail with an 11-12 knot westerly.

After leaving  Rogoznica on the mainland on Sunday 9^th we had a good sail up to the small island of Zlarin a short distance off the town of Sibenik on the mainland. Anchored in a small bay for a late lunch and then motored across to Sibenik which is another fortified town dating back to 1066AD – it is a mile or so from the sea and we proceeded for another few miles up river to the town of Zaton where we anchored in the river in a very small inlet with about 20 metres clearance all round for swinging.

 From here it is another few miles up the river to the Krka National Park and the charts showed several overhead power cables with the lowest showing a 30.5 metre clearance and our mast is 27 metres!  On Monday 10^th we explored up river by dinghy to check out the cables and found that the lowest cable had been removed and there was only the towers left standing. So back to the boat and motored up river for a mile or so through a canyon and then broke out into a large lake several miles across – crossed the lake and then a few more miles up river until we came across the small town of Skradin – where we anchored although there is a small marina there also. At this point probably about 8 miles from the sea and quite spectacular scenery. From here we got a ferry up to the Krka National Park – a brilliant series of hundreds of waterfalls as can be seen by the photos below. I think a must do! We spent pretty much all day there.

                                   Lower waterfalls at Krka National Park

Met a kiwi guy there on a Bavaria 49 (Phil Duhs) who is also cruising in Croatia this year. Late that afternoon we motored out of the river system and back across to the island of Zlarin where we anchored in the same bay again and the only boat there. A huge electrical storm passed directly overhead during the night, thunder like you’ve never heard before but by morning all clear again for a pre-breakfast swim. From here we had a bit of a drifter of a sail, from on the wind to genaker to a beam reach to motoring for the 30 odd mile run back to Split where we picked up Nicki and Richard on the night of Tuesday 12^th June.

Had a late night walk around Split followed by shopping at the market the following morning, took some more diesel on board (over $4 a litre here) and then early afternoon set sail for the 10 mile run across to the island of Brac. Stopped in at the delightful little town of Bobovisce at the western end of Brac for a very late lunch and a swim and then motored around to Milna a short distance away and ended up anchoring off the entrance to the town with a few other boats – another very calm night.

Thursday 14^th sailed around the western end of Brac and down the south coast to Dugi Rat, which appears to be a sand peninsula (bit is actually stony) which is written up as the most famous beach in Croatia.

Anchored off for lunch and a swim and as the westerly wind filled in during the afternoon eventually sailed the 10 miles across to the town of Vrboska on the northern coast of Otok Hvar. Motored up to the town quay but it looked a bit shallow for us so anchored off in the bay a mile from the town for a swim, an on board BBQ and another calm night.

Friday 15^th had a very pleasant sail under genaker to the western end of Otok Hvar and called into Stari Grad to fill up with water and get some provisions. Then had a good sail on the wind around to Hvar town and found ourselves amongst the first few boats in what was a race coming across from Split (good fleet with about 40 boats). Held our own pretty well in 17/18 knots apparent – all dropped anchor in Hvar town, S.E. blowing in and clearly was going to be an uncomfortable night at anchor but as Alice was pretty keen to get some nightlife action that is where we stopped for the night. Hvar town is called the Canne of Croatia. Dinner ashore at a great local restaurant up an alleyway off the main square.

The Australians off Hey Jude (Ralph and ude) the Bavaria Vision 50 that we had met in Split were in Havar town so it was great to catch up with them again. Ralph was the Bavaria agent in Australia and having sold out they are now enjoying their new boat.

Watched the start of the Split Yacht Club Saturday race around the islands (sounds just like Squadron weekend) and then motored across to St Klement island a few miles away and found the most delightful bay (with 22 yachts at anchor) – Uvalu Vinogradisee, beautiful clear blue water and went ashore at Toto’s for dinner. Well worthwhile and Olive the blonde waiter Edward was no-where to be found.  Hey Jude were also in the bay and the other Australians we had met in Split with the Benetau First 50 turned up having raced out on a Benetau 40.7 for the weekend.

So today a nice sail across to Otok Vis and now anchored in a small bay on the south side but will sail around to the town of Vis tonight.

The island was first inhabited during the stone ages and has been a producer of wine for 2000 years. It was also the island that Tito  used as a base to strategize with the partisans during the war and was only opened to the public in 1989.

Just had a call from Jason in London and tried to tempt him into flying over for a few days before going back to NZ  but that didn’t work.

Cheers

Keith