Otok Vis to Otok Iz Croatia

Posted at 8:15 PM, Jun. 24, 2007

Nearly a week since the last blog posting – imagine a casual week with water temps 27 to 28 degrees, water crystal clear, sky – no clouds in sight, sun blazing for 12 hours a day, sea breezes 5 to 15 knots, sailing every day sliding along quietly at 7 to 8 knots, islands everywhere (only 1205 of them), people generally nude on boats and beaches (shame about our prudish anglo-saxon upbringing), dozens of attractive small fishing villages with all the houses and buildings in stone, thousands of miles of stone walls in lieu of fences dating back 100’s of years, a sophistication unexpected, friendly people everywhere, great markets (fish and produce), good English spoken everywhere. All in all a fantastic week !

                                     A typical Croatian island house

A bit more detail. Left off last week about to head around to the town of Vis on the island (Otok) of the same name. Good sail back to Vis and anchored at the neighbouring town of Kut a few hundred metres away – found our Australian  friends from Hey Jude already there. Dinghied ashore and walked around the village of Kut and then around to Vis itself. The town quay completely.full with charter boats. More stylish restaurants (palm trees, courtyard settings etc) than we have seen anywhere before. We were pretty impressed with the sophistication demonstrated - buildings being beautifully restored everywhere, towns clean and tidy.

Next day (Monday 17^th motored down to the SE end of Vis and across to a nearby island Bisevo and dinghied  into the famous Blue Cave photographed below.

Well worth a visit but must be in the morning while the sun is at the right angle to the entrance and shines through the submerged side entrance. From here motor sailed back up the western side of Otok Vis and then across to Otok Solta just to the NE of Otok  Brac. Called into the northern village of Maslinica – to shallow to get onto the town quay so anchored off and took a stern line ashore to a concrete bollard – no-one said anything so we stayed the night.

A pleasant small village with a fantastic 5 star hotel right on the waterfront, and unusual for what we have seen of Croatia to date lovely gardens, watered and manicured! Restaurant prices very reasonable compared to what we have seen elsewhere. Nevertheless we had dinner on board but got tempted into a few healthy local beers ashore.

From Otok Solta we motor sailed to the mainland town of Primosten – described as a languid holiday town.  Primosten is on an island connected to the mainland by a causeway – it is very similar to North Head except has winding alleys and green shuttered old (dark interiors) stone houses leading to the Church of St George at the summit. A neat place and a must see! We pulled into the town quay for the night thinking we had the end and therefore quiet berth only to find a whole flotilla of charter yachts turned up and they managed to get angled berthage on the end – so we were surrounded by several boat loads of Poms. But enjoyable company. We walked around to Konoba Papec (on the northern side) where the owner who was born in the house serves local wine (Babic) and sells pre-dinner snacks comprising goats cheese soaked in olive oil, beer and local vino served from wooden barrels. A must do and heavens knows how he makes any money. Afterwards we had dinner in the main square (a good meal and reasonably priced except the fish) and watched a folklore performance by locals of dancing and singing. 

 Our Aussie friends (Ralph and Jude) from Hey Jude also turned up for the night but as they are now heading back south we will not see them again - this trip at least!

The next day it was a quiet sail and an anchor behind a deserted island for lunch and a swim and then a motor up to Sibernik and the 8 mile passage up the river to Skradin at the edge of the Krka National Park. At least 10 days since we had been here but a must see for Nicki and Richard and well worth a second visit. Also gave us a chance to explore the old town of Skradin which had a pretty cursory look over on our first visit. Again a must see – again. Got up there early evening, stayed overnight and then did the National Park the following day before then heading downstream to Sibernik where we berthed and explored the old town.

                           Skradin from the ferry to Krka National Park

Late afternoon then motored out to the nearby island of Zlarin where we overnighted in the town at the  northern end. The last few days we have wandered  our way northwards visiting, anchoring and swimming at a number of islands of which there are dozens to choose from. Heaps of anchorages and quiet starlit nights.

                                 Stone roof houses at Primosten

Have managed to get an online subscription to an America’s Cup site and have watched the first two races on-line. Great to see the score at 1 all at this stage – looks like a closely fought contest ahead with nothing much in it in terms of boat speed. Only marred by learning that out house in Auckland was burgled over the weekend.

Tonight anchored in a delightful bay with a few other boats on the island of Iz a few miles away from Sukosan where we will head into tomorrow to wrap up our berthing arrangements for the year.

                                                  Are we relaxed?

Cheers

Keith