Rovinj (Croatia) to Venice to Rovinj
Posted at 11:29 AM, Oct. 6, 2007
Well we have just completed three nights in Venice (found plenty of Merchants!) and undoubtedly one of the highlights of our journey to date. I have said that Pam and Alice have to write up the blog for our stay there as the entry definitely requires an overdose of creative and artistic writing.
San Marco Piazza - Basilica San Marco
Having done the amphitheatre at Pula, taken on board a few provisions and had a look around the town we decided that it didn’t warrant a second night at a below average ACI marina amongst smells emanating from the nearby ship building yard. We needed some diesel for the passage to Venice and despite supposedly open all day the diesel jetty was devoid of human activity although the Customs office was open for 24 hours. So late afternoon we decided to head further north up the coast to Rovinj, which has a great write up, and only about 16 miles up the coast. An uneventful motor sail and finally anchored off in the bay at the southern end of the town. Following morning (Tuesday 3rd October) we were tied up at the Customs wharf shortly after 0800 hrs and the first in the Customs office and then Police offices to clear out of Croatia. Fuelled up and then had a 7 hour motor for the 55 mile passage to the Porto di Lido entrance to the Laguna di Veneta. So calm we didn’t even get the main up – got slighty excited at one stage when a 3 kt NW “sprung” up at 20 degrees apparent but even that didn’t last. This part of the Adriatic (the Gulf of Venice) is not very deep with the greatest depth at around 35 metres so I can well imagine that an uncomfortable short steep sea would set in if it was blowing hard. The last few miles into the lagoon entrance into Venice we only had depths of around 9 metres.
Venice sits on an island in Laguna di Veneta that is about 25 miles long, parallel to the coast and probably no more than 7 or 8 miles wide. There are three entrances to the lagoon, the main one leading to Venice being Porto di Lido. We had not made any berthing arrangements and were hoping to get into one of the private yacht club marina’s on a berth vacated by a member while away sailing. The Imray Pilot in my opinion is not very helpful around this part of the Adriatic and for the yacht clubs it does not mention depths or phone numbers. Fortunately we were able to source the information from www.noonsite.com ( a great sailing resource site) and started calling them as we got close. The best option is on Isola San Giorgio Maggiore that is just across the water from San Marco Piazza – but to shallow for us as we draw 2.8 metres and the max depth there was only 2.5 metres. We also tried Isola di Sant Elena also close by the city but again defeated by our draft. It is also possible to tie up (for free) between the posts at Punta della Salute which is right next to the entrance to the Grand Canal – but the Pilot correctly says that would be like sitting in a washing machine.
So we ended up at Marina di Lio Grando north of Venice, in the lagoon and a 40 minute ferry ride in. The Pilot described it is a quiet place and they sure got that right. Only about 20 yachts there, one German boat in transit and the rest small permanent berths. So the idea of zooming through the Grand Canal in the dinghy while totally possible did not eventuate. Every morning we had quite heavy fog and an early rain shower on one morning but still warm weather.
Gondola action!
Got into the marina and then straight into Venice on the ferry for our first look around – stunning, and to find a place for dinner from the thousands of choices available. Interestingly the canal map of Venice is a bit like the London Underground route map – there are ferries and water taxis everywhere not to mention the piano accordionists serenading couples out for their pre-dinner gondola rides. I last visited 36 years ago but would have to say that I could not really remember it in any detail - but you can well imagine that Pam and Alice were spellbound! It is an extraordinary, vibrant and beautiful city – particularly once you get away from the tourist areas. But as one might imagine heavily tuned into the tourist scene and on occasion some quite unhelpful attitudes. The buildings, churches, paintings and sculptures are amazing. We had one great meal in a local Trattoria we stumbled across and two pretty average ones!
At the local Trattoria
And of course masks everywhere!
Venetian masks
Within the lagoon there are a couple of other islands we visited apart from Venice. There is Burano the home of lace making (yes a purchase made) and then Murano the home of Venetian glassware. Both well worth visiting and Burano is still a small working town supported by fishing as well as lace making – the houses are brightly coloured as the photo below shows.
A canal view on Burano
Have taken dozens of photo’s so will have to be discerning as to what we actually keep. Walked every day for miles and miles, if that is possible, and got the late ferry back to Savarna anywhere between 2300 hrs and midnight.
Good to hear from you Stria - unfortunately we will miss you in Venice - maybe passed you in the fog?
Today Friday 6th September we are motoring yet again back to Rovinj (or as the Italians say Rovigno) for the night and this visit a look around the town. It is absolutely flat calm with not a ripple on the water and we have had a heavy fog all the way across giving us about a 2 mile visibility and at least with some blue sky and sun directly above. Running with radar on and channel 16 open for the day!
Arrived into Rovinj at 1730 hrs after motoring at 8 knots for 7 hours and missed clearing Customs as they had closed at 1700 hrs. Anchored off in the very attractive bay and went ashore for a much needed beer!
That’s it for me and I will pass over to the creative and artistic talents of the females on board for their views of Venice!!
Cheers
Keith