Dubrovnik to Durres (Albania)

Posted at 10:31 AM, May. 30, 2008

As I write this we are sitting up against the wharf in Durres on northern Albania having arrived here 24 hours ago after a 15 hour overnight motoring, flat calm passage from Dubrovnik on a very hot day (well into the 30’s, water temp around 26) – interspersed with a few cold Becks, swims and sighting a swordfish dancing to escape something bigger no doubt. The agent I mentioned in the last posting turned out to be Captain Llambi Papa and I txted him as we got close in to Durres with the consequence he was waiting for us at the wharf. Basically a pretty dirty and grotty place to be tied up with no facilities and a ship literally feet away unloading grain into hoppers. With a light breeze blowing across the ship we will be a grainary ourselves by the time we leave!

Using an agent is a must as the police and security presence is noticeable and Llambi sat in the cockpit with us and quickly completed all the forms. There is one other boat here with a solo sailor from Holland on a 385 Halberg Rassey who is rafted up against us due to absolutely no facilities for visiting yachts – which I think is a rarity. This is a country that at least from what we have seen to date has no leisure boating activity at all - mainly it appears to avoid the people “escaping” to Italy! Albania has followed an extreme isolationist policy for many years under communist rule following the Second World War and this has only been relaxed fairly recently. The town of Durres, the largest port in Albania, and about 35 kilometres from Tirana the capital, at least boasts ATM machines that generate euros or lek’s, the local currency of which 5,000 equals 42 euros (say $85 kiwi)  - which was just as well as we had no currency on us when we arrived.

Probably the most telling impression to date has been how cheap everything is. Last night we ate at a nearby restaurant recommended by Llambi and each ordered a fish dish. Shortly afterwards an appetiser arrived, then a huge bowl of mussels then our fish (decent size and whole) and then ice cream and fresh fruit. Washed down with a couple of bottles of water, wine and beer and the whole lot came to 42 euros ($85 kiwi). 

                                 John finds the local wine hard to resist!!

Other prices in kiwi (200% of a euro), Montana sauvignon blanc $17, French bourdeaux $19 a bottle. I think wine must be dumped here at these prices - needless to say the bilges are loaded.  At the restaurant $9.00 for steak main course and $5.50 for a seafood pasta. Diesel still expensive at $2.70 a litre.

Today (Thursday 30^th May) Llambi organised a car and driver and we spent the day touring. This area is probably typical of what many eastern European cities and towns have looked like in recent years as they have embraced democracy and capitalism – namely significant building and construction activity involving buildings, roads and infrastructure projects most likely accompanied with little in the way of regulatory control. The result is relatively chaotic – dirty, dusty, dreadful sections of road, half finished buildings and pollution that will ensure Albania will not be signing up to the Kyoto treaty any time soon. The population is around 3.5 million and there seems to be new petrol stations every few hundred metres along the main roads so not too sure how that works. There would have to be more Mercdes cars than anywhere we have been before – there are thousands of them ranging from old 190E’s to the latest S Class, plus plenty of new BMW’s.  So it would seem as in any country moving to a freer less regulated economy that a few are able to take advantage of the opportunities and profit accordingly, a large middle class evolves and the rest exist at a subsistence level. Unemployment is high and tourism is not encouraged

On to todays trip which took us across the coastal and seemingly fertile plains up into the mountains to the town of Skanderbeg which is dwarfed by a large castle that is largely now in ruins.

                        View from castle across hilltown of Sonnerbeg

Our driver escorted us around the castle ruins and the impressive museum that has been built within and incorporating some of the castle walls. The Albanian history seems to have been characterised by fighting and wars mostly with the Turks as far as we can make out.

                         Skanderbeg Castle and Museum

In a souvenir shop outside the castle walls they were selling pistols and holsters – I don’t think they worked anymore! After this we drove into Tirana and stopped at a bar for a much needed beer or two. Then went to a large shopping centre which was very modern, a full range of food stuffs in the supermarket and fashion boutiques of the like seen in NZ in the 60’s.

Tomorrow we will head to the port of Vlores where Llambi has told us there is a small private marina in a security controlled area – about 50 miles down the coast.

For the record Llambi's fee for acting as our agent, 2 nights berthage, providing an Albanian flag  (hard to find outside Albania) and organising a few other things came to 65 euro's - car hire for the day including driver 100 euro's.

Cheers

Keith

PS posting this on Saturday afternoon 31 May as we head further south off the coast of Albania and with both Italy and Corfu in sight - connecting to Vodafone Greece.