Last of the Ionian
Posted at 9:41 AM, Jun. 16, 2008
At the last blog posting we were quietly stern to on the town quay at Kioni on the island of Ithaca which is the supposed place where Odysseus came from and which is the subject of Homer’s epic poem ‘Odyssey.’ The town basin at Kioni is quite small so unless you get onto the quay by early afternoon it is either anchoring off, or anchor and stern to on the southern side of the basin, but also very close to the centre of action. We were lucky that we scored a spot on the quay and as the town was so delightful with a beach and swimming spot just 50 metres from the stern we decided to stay put for a couple of nights. At the house adjoining the bund wall the ferries come into there is a guy who sells water (for EUR5 a tank) and provides showers for (EUR2.50) which is very convenient as there are no facilities otherwise.
So a couple of relaxing days, eating drinking, running (for Michael and Richard) walking (for Pam and me) and swimming with the kids. We also met up again with Chris and Mo from Mayero who we had last seen in Tropea – a few late night gins in their cockpit was again most enjoyable. Had a very nice dinner ashore on Thursday night at a taverna on the waters edge.
The fishing port at Frikes, 5 k's over the hill from Kioni.
We also met two other NZ boats here who were at anchor but found us on the quay. Don and Pauline Fletcher on board their 75ft Ocean Free (with well known NZ boat builder Kelly Archer on board) and also Ross and Jo Blackman on Soliloquy (Ross ex Team NZ). The bay probably had 30 boats anchored or at the quay of which 3 were flying the RNZYS pennant – maybe a first.
Thursday afternoon I called up the engineers at Levkas marina and found that the new anchor winch and the capacitor for the generator were due in the following morning. Amazingly it all worked out well and we motor sailed the 23 miles up to Levkas with a good breeze behind us. By mid afternoon all the work was satisfactorily completed and we headed south again planning to spend the night at Spartochori that Ross had told us was an attractive bay at the northern end of Meganissi. We had a great sail on the wind in 18 knots with first Michael and then Sarah on the handle bars, all sail up and Sarah keeping the boat in the grove at up to 8.5 knots. Ross’s comments on Spartochori were correct and we anchored off in about 28 metres – so plenty of chain out to test the new winch! Ocean Free and Soliloquy were also there. Spent a couple of nights here as there was a beach for the kids to swim off, a good taverna for a beer and a huge doghouse on Ocean Free also for a beer.
There are pontoons for yachts to moor to at the western side of the bay and a taverna while on the eastern side it is possible to go stern or bow to the quay and also a taverna. We favoured the eastern side which was more attractive and a very good taverna. From here be most it is was a short walk up to the hilltop town of Spartochori where we explored the narrow winding streets (the town was dead quiet), followed by a pizza lunch and litre glasses of beer!
Lunch at the hilltop town of Spartochori
In one respect the highlight of our exploration of the town was stumbling across a funeral party walking down a street to the church – the group that seemed to comprise most of the town was headed by a man carrying the lid of the coffin, followed by two Greek Orthodox priests in all the regalia, then the open coffin carried by quite a few men followed by more men then the women. We were told that they lower the casket into the ground with the lid off and then throw the lid on afterwards before waiting 40 days and then having another service. The ‘wake’ was held at the taverna on our side of the bay.
The top of the road at Spartochori
And to Sunday 15th and it was sadly time to deliver family and Michael back to Levkas so they could fly back to London and then NZ. We had a great time with them, the weather was excellent with temps probably in the mid to high 20’s and water temps around 23 to 25. They all had a great time with Emma and Luke finding their sea legs quickly and adapting to their first sailing experience very well. The Ionian is a wonderful cruising ground, referred to as the Inland Sea as it is largely contained by islands, the wind is gentle in the mornings before building in the afternoons and then dying in the evenings. The weather pattern appears to be quite predictable. We have in reality barely touched the area but will no doubt spend more time here when we come back from Turkey.
After the family departure it was time to diesel and water up and by 11.00am we were under way southwards in a building NW. Had a wonderful 55 odd mile sail down to Missalonghi which is about 15 miles into the Gulf of Corinth. Wind built to around 25 knots just aft of the beam and we rolled along mostly between 10 and 11 knots – champagne sailing. This port is entered via a canal (yes another one) of about 1 mile long surrounded on both sides by houses on stilts and salt pans before opening onto a large basin. On the NW side there has been a marina development started but not completed and there were about 5 or 6 boats there only. The Pilot describes the harbour and town as not having much charm and that appeared to be a correct description.
We anchored off in about 6 metres while it continued to blow hard well into the evening.
Entering Missalonghi
Tomorrow we will head further in to the Gulf probably aiming to get to the town of Itea which is close to the ancient city of Delphi that we plan to visit.
Cheers
Keith