Aegean Island Hopping
Posted at 8:11 PM, Jul. 8, 2008
We entered the former cauldron of fire through a major breach in the northern wall of the volcano (last eruption 1956) to one of the more notable views in the Mediterranean. To port the crescent shaped island of Santorini stood, representing over 50% of the crater rim with other islands to starboard representing the balance of the rim. Atop the Santorini rim clusters of white houses, topped with the Cyclades blue, perched and clung to the volcanic rock on sheer cliffs 350 metres above the sparkling blue water.
Santorini crater wall with Thira above
The crater is 6 miles long and 4 miles wide and the original eruption was thought to be about 1400 BC and estimated to be 3 times the size of Krakatoa. In the middle of the crater stands the island of Nea Kammeni which I presume is basalt rock but in reality resembles a huge pile of shiny black coal.
We were met at the port, carved out of rock at the base, by a driver from the hotel we had booked and then driven up the equivalent of the Treble Cone road for 20 minutes to the town of Firostefani about 2 k’s north of the chora (main town) Thira. That was last Saturday night (July 5th) and we travelled there by a Blue Star ferry from Naxos having left Erik and Linda to catch the ferry from the party island of Ios back to Athens the previous day.
On the last posting we were planning to go to Naxos but with the meltemi still blowing hard from slightly east of north that was going to be a close hauled sail – so we opted for the more southerly route to Nisos Ios. Left our friends on the Halberg Rassy (Eos) at Kamare on Sifnos and sailed down the west coast of Sifnos in 25 knots (the sheltered side) under a single reefed main, turned left at the bottom into 30 knots plus with a double reefed main, and about a third of the jib out. Fast sailing with the wind slightly ahead of the beam – fortunately as we cleared Sifnos the wind dropped back to 20 – 25 knots and veered to the left so with an angle of 120 degrees we went to full headsail and one reef, and a couple of hours later as the wind dropped further shook out the last reef until about 5 miles off Ios and the wind dropped off to around 10 knots. The 37 mile passage took about 4.5 hours with some fast sailing in parts and a lumpy messy sea as a result of a week of the meltemi blowing.
We called into the port but at its head there was not enough depth so we went a few miles south and anchored off the beach of Milopotamou in relative shelter – we thought the meltemi was finally over for the time being. A couple of hours later though the meltemi had one last good blow so we up anchored and got a good sheltered spot to throw the anchor (to use Alain’s expression), under a nearby cliff. Ios is the island for young people – over 30 you stand out, over 60 you are invisible! Lots of Aussies and Scandinavian’s here, beautiful sandy beaches, clothing not permitted apparently (we did not see evidence of this) and lots of bars, taverna’s, hotels and backpackers hostels. Erik and I went ashore for a look and to check the sights and bars out and then we all went ashore for a fantastic (believe it or not) Thai dinner at Delphini’s restaurant right on the beach and well looked after by Erin the young Australian waitress from Perth. And genuine Thai women cooking!
The following morning (Friday 4th) we caught the bus to the port and sadly saw Erik and Linda depart on the ferry for Athens – we had not seen them for nearly 20 years and it was great to catch up again and it was as though not a day had passed in the meantime. In several ways we have had a significant influence on each others lives and we now need to ensure we have an annual meet up somewhere.
Farewells at Nisos Ios
They enjoyed their sailing experiences despite the persistence of the meltemi and also, I introduced them to Katie Melua. They arrived with the meltemi and once they left the wind died to nothing so we motor sailed the 27 miles north to Naxos, seeing Eos arrive into port at Ios just before we left.
Naxos turned out to be a lovely town and one of the best we have visited yet with a maze of alleyways, great shops and heaps of taverna’s. The town had a good feel to it and we managed to get a berth on the marina – still have to anchor and stern to but at least sheltered and water and power available. On Saturday afternoon we caught the ferry down to Santorini and called into Ios again en route. Reading the Pilot the berthing situation at Santorini looked less than good so we flagged that idea and took a leaf out of Swagman’s blog and ferried over. We stayed at the Ira hotel and the owner, a suave Greek with a voluptuous girlfriend recommended us a local family taverna for dinner and we were lucky to score a table at Actaion which judging by the number of people turned away is a top place.
Great restaurant says mine host! - and he is right
We had a bottle of a local “good” red and when we came to settle up we found that the hotel owner (Marnos) who had also turned up for dinner there (with his girlfiend) had paid for the wine. A really generous gesture on his part! The view from our hotel room was also like Treble Cone except in this case you lay in bed and saw the sea past the balcony.
View to the south from Santorini hotel room
Sunday we hired a Suzuki convertible jeep and drove around various parts of the island. It is an unusual place with the strong volcanic influence and off the crater rim the eastern side slopes down to the sea with grapes being grown everywhere. A bit different here in that the vines just lie on the ground. They say the beaches are black sand but from our visit they are actually black stones – admittedly small – and I cannot work out why anyone would want to come to Santorini to go to the beach, unless to sleep off the previous nights excesses.
Sunday evening we caught the ferry back up to Naxos and found another New Zealand boat in the marina – a 46ft Moody called Bandit owned by a couple from Picton. (David and Brenda - just seen your post on the blog so hope to catch up soon). As the marina comprises one finger for visitors and holds about 18 boats NZ was well represented. Had dinner ashore at a good waterfront taverna – with daylight until 2130 hrs it is hard (read impossible) to get early nights these days!!
We also got our “transit log” stamped by the Port Authority and this is a procedure we are supposed to do at every port and every time there is a crew change. The paper work and processes are antiquated but no doubt the Greek authorities with such an extensive shipping heritage know what they are doing.
Cheers
Keith