1st to 5th June - Latakia (Syria) down Levant Coast to Jouneih (Lebanon)

Posted at 9:35 AM, Tuesday, June 6, 2006

Well if we thought the differences between Turkey and Syria were significant, we can tell you it’s nothing compared to the differences between Syria and Lebanon! 

Despite sharing borders to the north and east, and the two countries capitals being less than 100 miles apart, and even though Lebanon is the smaller nation, the living standards here are much higher.

The building standards and sizes of houses, the more modern powerful cars, the cleanliness in and about the towns, and the range of goods in the stores – whereas Syria is has a long way to go, Lebanon seems to be already there.  It’s not unlike any other developed nation.

The Lebanese seem to have got over their fifteen year of a pretty savage civil war twix the Muslim and Christian factions, and also seem to be coping with the ongoing territorial issues with neighbours both north and south.  Overall we are told, the pace of reconciliation as well as reconstruction in the Lebanon has been fast and furious. 

Lebanon has a population of around 1.5 million people living in a land area 1/10^th the size of Syria.  They also say there are over 40 million people of Lebanese extraction who live elsewhere around the globe.  I’ve no doubt that wider global input has assisted this country to remain abreast of world standards.

From the sea, the buildings and steeply wooded hillsides remind one of the shore you see around Nice or Monte Carlo.  Indeed, when sailing south at night the border was obviously identifiable by the lack of shore lights Syria-side, and the brightly lit streets and housing on the Lebanese side.

The Lebanese coastline we’ve seen appears to be densely populated with houses, apartments, and hotels.  Each urban area seeming to run into one another so it appears a seamless coastal city.  After visiting Beirut we believe it has regained its reputation as ‘the Paris in the middle east’, we found it classy and sophisticated.  Some parts of town are just as expensive – maybe even more so – than France.

It’s obvious there is a lot of money in circulation and simple indicators like the number and quality of cars surprise us.  The Jounieh Marina car park is jammed with Porches, Mercedes, BMW, Jags, Range Rovers most days.  And I can’t recall us seeing any Ferraris parked up in Syria!  

Downtown Beirut is filled with shopping malls full of designer shops, and most appeared busy with locals buying up big time. 

The marina at Jounieh is located in a Christian dominated suburb about 20 km north of Beirut city centre.  The marina is part of the Automobile Club of Lebanon and set up as a club.  It has superb facilities all available for us to use.  It was purpose built for pleasure yachts but today seems only occupied by a few rather jaded powerboats – although it is still busy with locals enjoying the social and sporting side.   The only boats that appear to be used regularly are small ski boats going out every day.  Tennis, swimming, fitness club and ski boat facilities appear popular with the membership as well as with visitors like us.    

Security is still an issue but well managed.  There are soldiers or security guards – or both - just about every major street corner or significant building. They look well capable of looking after themselves.  We went on a day trip to Beirut on Sunday and the soldiers we met seemed pleased to welcome us to their country.  Even the marina has its guards at each entrance – and all cars are stopped and often searched.

The marina complex is modern but is also being developed to a new higher standard.  It already has two pools – and as the temperature has reached more than 35 degrees each day since we arrived.  The club also has an integral fitness club, six open air tennis courts, and the larger (of the two) pools is overlooked by a nice restaurant and bar.  All guaranteed to help us all relax.  You find yourself actually thinking you are on a vacation……..

The overnight sail last Thursday down to Jounieh was uneventful with no wind and a completely flat sea.  We chugged along at minimal revs and still made an average of 7 knots.  As seems to be the pattern, smaller boats left first and larger ones like us followed on.  Motoring that 85 miles means we need to top up the fuel tank again before we depart from here to points further south where diesel gets to be more expensive. 

We did take on 150 litres in Latikia as diesel costs in Syria are the lowest of any country on the trip.  Even with a ‘foreigner tax’ imposed, Syrian diesel was only US$ 0.49 per litre.  In the Lebanon it is US$ 0. 65 per litre.  Further south it is US$1.20.  The two large US power boats - Nordstom 62’s - and the one Japanese Grand Banks 42 are naturally loading up with several tons of fuel at this lower price.

We had the same routing procedure to follow on the way here, being obliged to remain at least six miles off until level with the port at Jounieh, where we were allowed to turn 90 degrees and approach the marina in the dawn light.  No attendant gun boats here.

Most yachts arrived earlier than needed, so most anchored off Jouniehs pretty beach whilst we all waited for the marina staff to arrive and begin our entry formalities. 

When it was time to go in the Lebanese customs, immigration and security forces were in attendance on the marina docks.  They were very courteous and well organised, making the completion of the multipart entry formalities very easy.  They take away passports / crew lists / papers and replace them with temporary shore passes – and you get it all back when you leave. 

I’m not sure of the Muslim / Christian percentage mix overall in the country, but local to the marina it seems to be leaning towards the latter.  I base that on so many scantily clad ladies parading around the marina / pool, or water-skiing off the local beaches.

Mind you, when we anchored off waiting for the marina to open at 0900 – we did see one strange sight.  I was attracted to one of those packed tourist boats with music blaring which came out of the harbour early on.  Oh no, I thought – it’s not so ‘Orthodox Christian’ we’re going to see Ibiza all over again – and at 0800 in the morning! 

Here is Jounieh waterfront adjacent to that anchor area.

I was half expecting to identify a western tune and see half naked girls dancing around with drinks in hand on the boats deck – but as it drew close we saw Islam still rules with some locals.  The boat music blaring as it rocked past was kind of Islamic funky.  And the deckchairs were crammed with black burkahed ladies despite the oppressive heat. 

Maybe they were tapping toes – of course under cover - as they motored out to view the yachts?

Since being here were done a couple of day trips out to historic locations and taken cabs solo down to Beirut for shopping. 

Here we were in Biblos - a small but intact Roman port.

And tourist facilities also overlook the harbour......

Rest of the time has been spent either chilling around the pool in the shade, doing lengths, or attending evening cocktail parties on other boats.  Here is one with 73 people on Dragon Song - a 45 footer.

Its been a great place for a break from the frantic pace of the rally so far.

The taxis here are very low cost, but despite how modern everything else is, the Lebanese taxi drivers we pick tend to favour 40/50 year old Mercedes.  No aircon – all held together with wire - and the faith of the passengers. 

Going anywhere in them is a true driving experience.  Almost converts you into a believer………..

Last night (Sunday) we had a evening meal hosted by the yacht club at the poolside restaurant.  It started as a formal affair, but with the hot evening, with freebie bottles of spirits as well as wine, it quickly degenerated.  A Lebanese girl dance group kept most of us occupied whilst they were on stage – and temped us to join them on stage.

Here are Sue and Sylvie who took up the invitation.

Did not take long before kit was off and the pool invaded.  Very good night out – possibly the best party experienced on the rally.

Later today we are off on our next leg.  We can’t say where we are going despite the fact they can easily see it all on the radar.  Another 85 miler down to what we all now call ‘India’.  The weather forecast is for some wind at least – so maybe we will manage to get the sails up and the engine off.  Fingers crossed.  The security checks as we enter ‘Indian’ waters are extreme – so that should keep us all on our toes.

Last tip – we’ve found our GPRS roaming plan with Vodaphone is not accepted in either Syria or Lebanon.  We can use the computer to send text etc via the SIM card – and it detects mobile services are available – but it will not log us in.  Can only assume they will not co-operate on the kind of volume data deals we’ve got – hence our need to buy wi-fi access at the marina.  Sadly even that has failed on it’s third day – seems the combined yacht usage has overloaded the system – so this entry will not be loaded until we get access again – possibly in ‘India’.

Take care

JOHN