27th / 28th / 29th June 2006 – Israel to Turkey

Posted at 1:15 PM, Thursday, June 29, 2006

No pictures in this blog.

We cleared out of Herzliya at 0900 on the 27^th for this longish passage back north north west to Turkey.  The weather forecast when we departed was favourable, SW 2/3 in the morning, easing and veering west later on the 27th, and coming back stronger to a S/SW F5 about 24 hours out when we should be off Cyprus.  Better conditions than the normal north westerlies predicted this time of year.

Our course from Israel was to the north west, meaning if the forecast was accurate we should have been able to reach for most of the trip.  I think we were both happy to relax for this journey and led to us not bothering to hoist either the Code 0 or Spinnaker.  We kept to the plan and only salied with only our main and blade headsail up, taking it easy, and using the negine when speeds dropped below 6.5 knots.

That high average meant we'd only be at sea a maximum of 52 hours.  

We topped up our fuel tanks before leaving.  Expensive compared with Syria and Egypt at US$1.15 per litre.  It did mean we could motor the whole way over to Turkey if the weather let us down.  The our original plan for a stop over Southern Cyprus had been shelved – going direct the passage will be 335 miles.

The reason for not stopping in Cyprus is we were unsure of how the S. Cypriot authorities treat boats that have visited N.Cyprus. 

As we'd stopped into Girne / N.Cyprus when coming down with the rally it could mean we are at risk of prosecution if we went into southern Cypriot waters.  The talk on the jetties in Herzliya was of an Israeli skipper who admitted last month to having gone into N.Cyprus two years back, and we were told he was not only fined but faced a 20 day prison term.  We’d no basis for knowing if this story is true or false – but decided it might be best to err on the side of caution and stay away.

So our direct course from Herzliya to Finneke is set to take us 16 miles off the south west coast of Cyprus.  No coastguard contact - no issues.

When we get to Turkey we’ll need to take out a new Turkish Cruising Permit to enable us to keep the boat there this winter.  The previous permit was handed in when we cleared out of Iskanderun for Syria. 

The need for the new permit is the only reason we are heading for Finneke as opposed to a quiet Turkish anchorage.  It’s likely we’ll stop overnight in Finneke, sort the paperwork and get away to Kekova on the 30^th. 

Our first 12 hours on the journey saw the wind match the predictions and by the afternoon we had to power up the engine to keep to our schedule.  Not much other traffic out on the water.  A few other yachts had also left during the morning, but their destinations are diverse so whilst we were able to chat with some via VHF, we doubted if we'll see them en-route.

Early evening on the first day, clouds began to appear from the SW and by nightfall they had taken a darker more threatening hue.  So prepped for heavy weather by stowed things like the bimini away, and stashing normally deck laid spare sails away down below.  I went down after our evening meal, and took over from Sue at 0100 Wednesday morning.  The sea did get up a bit, but the winds remained variable and light.

By this time there were still some stars visible above us – but with the low lying cloud cover we could see no moon.  It made it pitch black out there, allowing us to spy millions of small jelly fish phosphorescence in our bow wave and wake as we shouldered our way north west, butting into a short sea usually under both sail and engine. 

At 2,000 revs and with the max 10 knot breeze also pushing us along, we were making 7.5 knots over the ground and at one stage considered we may arrive too early - but later in the trip the current moved back against us and we found our planned passage time worked out almost to the minute.

We’d purchased a second VHF handset for the cockpit whilst in Israel so I enjoyed my watch listening in to conversations twix larger vessels and various authorities.  With a handset now cockpit mounted we can now jump channels without having to go below. 

Funny think we both found was the buzz we got hearing this far north, other ships calling up the Suez Canal Authority – or indeed the Israeli Navy!  The propagation that night was exceptional.

The sky lightened around 0430 and we could see the dark clouds were still rolling around the horizon – albeit low down.  Despite the still expected stronger winds – by 0900 we had reset the bimini.  Clouds or not, it’s hot trying to sail in this part of the world without one up.

By 1000 we were 20 miles off SW Cyprus – still another 160 miles to get to Finneke – but we were romping along at 7 / 7.5 knots in a freshening breeze.  A nice four hour blast in the middle of the day - but it did not last.

By mid afternoon the winds eased, and by sunset backed to the west / northwest at 10 knots.  Not ideal for us as that’s the direction we wish to go - but it will ensure we retain our 6.5 speed plan once the current turns against us again.

I went off watch at 2030 with all sails down and Sue motoring directly into the headwind - and Finneke 93 miles ahead.  With our bimini up we've calculated we loose 1 knot of boat speed in a 10 knot headwind, as it acts like a huge air brake. 

When Sue got me back on deck at midnight, the breeze had died completely and we were still rolling north west on an oily but flat sea.  This watch saw me change directions twice for a couple of small ships - but otherwise absolutely uneventful.

As dawn came up, we could see the high mountains on this part of the Turkish coast, and by 0900 we were radioing in and seeking permission to refuel / clear customs / and stay for one night.

I'm now uploading this after a lazy shoreside lunch.  Sues fast asleep in the forecabin - in 5 minutes I'll be the same in the cockpit.

Looking forward to chilling out at Kekova Roads tomorrow and I'll catch you all later.

Cheers

JOHN