We slipped our lines at Kemer at 1100 on Thursday 10th and waving our farewells to pals who gathered to see us off, smiled to each other as we took on the routine tasks of packing up fenders and lines as we exited the marina.  Funny how easily it all came together as we prepared for the 60 mile run, first south to the cape, and then westward bypassing Fineke and onward to Kekova Roads.

The forecast was for light northerlies going south later in the day, so we were expecting to either go slow or motor the whole way.  T’was not to be.  As we cleared the headland below Kemer we felt stronger winds building, so hoisted the main, unfurled the new genoa, and settled down to check out the cut of the new sail. 

It looked good – and whats more important it felt good.  Much more powerful in the lightish breezes than the old self tacking sail – and pulled us along strongly.

All other systems were working fine.  One small issue of a fuel leak somewhere below became obvious when we turned off the engine.  Nothing stinks worse than diesel fuel – so one more job on the ‘to-do’ list when we next stop.

For the first two hours the winds were fitful – building one minute – dropping the next, and the direction also swung so we were beating into a south westerly as we approached the southern cape of Taslik Burnu.  This high mountain with a number of islands lying off it, is more commonly known as Cape Gelidonya, was famous in ancient times for the number of wrecks it claimed – at least one dating from the Bronze Age.

Once round the cape and heading due west towards Kekova, the winds swung yet gain and started gusting to 20 knots.  We pulled down the bimini which looked like it wanted to take off, and Swagman complete with new big headsail and a clean and shiny bottom, began to move out nicely. Great sail, often topping 9 knots boatspeed.  Tried out the new genoa winged out with mainsail - worked a treat.

As we swooped along were pleased with a good omen of a small pod of Dolphins joining us to say bye bye to Kemer.  They were huge beasties – maybe 15/19 foot long – but cavorted just like their smaller cousins in our bow wake before diving off and disappearing.

That wind made the passage pretty quick, and by 1700 we were dropping sails as we entered into the protection of Gokkaya Limini and out of the wind.

Gokkaya is a group of small islands close to the mainland coast and at the eastern entry to Kekova Roads.  It has narrow but navigable channels between numerous islands, some big, some small.  We dropped anchor tucked into the NW corner with only a few other vessels for company, and launched the dinghy to explore. 

The various creeks feeding this area have formed a series of miniature fiords, and other freshwater springs bubble up around the boats.  Must make it deliciously cooling in the hotter summer months.

Sue cooked up on board as I attempted to track down the fuel leak.  She was successful.  I was not.  Frustrating.

As night fell this location was absolutely still.  I’d have liked to say also silent – but one Gullet was obviously in end-week party mode, so we zonked off to sleep to the thump of Turkish pop.  No real complaints.

Following mornings I deployed our solar panel before the rising sun (yup works), checked out on overnight battery usage as we’d also installed low amperage LED anchor light (yup all worked also), and spent another hour head down in engine room trying to locate fuel leak before Sue arose.  No luck.  Even more frustrating.

Towards midday hauled anchor and motored on round into Kekova Roads proper.  Its an area stretching maybe 5 miles along the coast with a large long island providing seaward protection, and lots of protected anchorages in little bays on inside edge – plus an underwater city still covered it ancient artefacts easily visible from your deck.  And as if that’s not enough, opposite the island on the mainland there is a narrow entry to a four mile long lagoon.  When in there, one is sheltered on all sides by high wooded mountains, so it’s the ultimate bolt hole if one ever encountered storms in this region, and also very pretty.

As we approached the lagoon entry, one passes the small village of Kale which straggles from the shoreline up to an hugely impressive Castle set on the hilltop above.  On the shore are a number of restaurants each with its own narrow stone jetty actually built on top of ancient jetties created 3,000 years back.  Tied to one we saw a US registered but ex Kemer yacht ‘Robin Lee’.  We’d met and enjoyed the company of owners Charles and Robin when back in Kemer, and knowing Charles is a good engine man, we parked up alongside to seek assistance.

Took him maybe 30 minutes to find and sort the leak.  I hate clever bastards. 

Ended up swopping beers and stories still tied up on the restaurant jetty for the rest of the day and night – and also sold him our old gangway for half what the new carbon jobbie cost.  Great result.

Sue and Robin went for a girlie wander and spent up big time shopping in the small shacks that make up Cale Coy. 

We paid our mooring dues by having a relaxing meal in Hasans Roma the restaurant off the jetty.  

All crashed into bed before 2200 as we all plan to slip further westward today.

We’ll not even try to sail in company today as they want to stopover on the Greek Island of Kastellorizon, whereas we aim to continue westward and try to make Gocek in one hit.  It’s around 90 miles from here so it will be longish day if the winds are not good.  Guess if we find we’re bashing it out into the expected prevailing headwinds, we can always seek out an anchorage for the night and finish off the leg sometime Monday.

I need to get to Marmaris sometime midweek so we can formally check out of Turkey with customs and get the invoices for the new dinghy and new sail stamped up as exported.  We can then claim a VAT refund worth a few hundred euros, before sliding off over to the Greek Islands.  We’ll be meandering our way across the Cycladean group to end up in where Jude and Viv fly into Santorini (Thera) in 3 weeks time, and join us a week working our way even further westward towards Poros / Agina.

Cheers

Sue and John