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Swagmans Sailing Blog

Swagmans Sailing Blog


Come on in and say hello via a 'comment'. We've cruised our Hanse 46' sailboat from UK to Egypt to the Caribbean mainly two handed from 2004 to 2008 - and enjoyed every minute. We are back temporarily in the UK - but sunshine beckons us again for next summer.

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23rd May - Bodrum (Turkey) to Kos (Greece)

Posted at 4:10 PM, Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Bodrum Marina is OK by us.  

 

Lots of German livaboards and older race yachts abound.  It all felt a tad Germanic also in its regime, i.e. itz verboten to use hose mit nix nozzle, security guards in uniform, absolutely clean waters, people polishing 24/7.

 

Reception is equally efficient - its all apparently well run - but not sure with such precision I’d want to stop there for a complete winter season.

 

 

It is also on the chicer side of Bodrum town.  As you exit the marina there’s a Marina Shopping Mall that could be anywhere worldwide, and severally classy roadside bars and restaurants, but as you walk away the standard steadily heads downward.  And central Bodrum itself is seriously touristy.  Very tacky.

 

FYI Bodrum Marina cost us 58 euros for the nights stay, water, electric and wi-fi included. 

 

After an evening wander we ended up having a great meal at the Marina Club Restaurant actually just along from the boat.  Classy layout and service – plus live rocker on violin giving his all. 

 

Good music.  Good food.  Cost us 80 lire with 35 of that for the wine.  In total a fraction over £30 - hope we don't regret leaving this lovely lower cost country for the EU!

 

Awake with the dawn to complete more boat chores, and headed out at 1030 for Kos which simmered on the horizon.  Winds moderate from the west (oh yes, they forecasted southerlies), and 30 minutes later Sue hoiked down the Turkish courtesy flag –

 

 

 

and hoiked up the Greek flag. 

 

 

As we’re coming from outside the EU, we now need to clear in with Customs, Passport Control, and Port Police.  Hence the yellow Q flag also going up.

 

Kos Marina responded warmly as called on Channel 77 and the pilot boat directed us to go alongside the outer harbour wall as opposed to sliding into a berth between other yachts.  He clarified that it’s 80% more expensive on the wall than in a regular berth but they simply don't have one for a boat our size - not for the three days we need anyway. 

 

Expected the worst when we went to the office to book in / pay, but even with 80% price hike it was (only) 54 euros per night.  Around £33.00 per night all inclusive so thats OK with us.

 

 

Had to fold out the treadlies to get to Passport Control and Customs and then visit Port Police - all a good 20 minute walk around to Kos Harbour.  Having got there and seen how empty the harbour is this time of year, it is where we'd go to if we came here again at the same time.  Clearly the harbour is almost as wel protected as the marina,  level jetty behind, and they even appear to have tailing lines set up ready........... 

 

And of course even cheaper.

 

Kos itself is pretty in the way only Greek ports can be. It feels (as you might  expect) somewhat different to Bodrum which is barely 20 miles behind us.  Even the smells of Greece are different to those in Turkey.

 

But it is clear the Turks lived here at some stage as one can see from the architecture, as well as some Italian influences.  Deep purple bourgainvillea and a paler oleander abound.  The harbour is overlooked by a pretty castle and we enjoyed wandering around dodging the regular tourists and locals on scooters and hire bikes.

 

Here we trialled the cameras self timer for the first time, with it balanced on top of two ashtrays.  I'd just leapt back into place over the table.  Thats my excuse for my pained expression. 

 

 

 

Also learnt that too much Greek red wine can bruise your knees. 

 

A slowly stretching heavy plastic bag filled with vino bashes ones knees when using small wheeled treadlies to head for home. 

 

Other expat skippers moored off our stem and stern have offered to keep their eyes on Swagman if we disappear for a couple of days as previously planned, so despite not having the company of Robin Leigh,  we’ve booked Blue Star Ferry’s to Rhodes early tomorrow.

 

Our plan is to get there and hire a car, explore the island, find a hotel, and stop away for a night or so.  Think the new term for it is flash-packing.

 

We did get hold of Robin Leigh earlier today on the radio.  They hauled out of Kos this morning heading north to make ground with the wind forecast was so favourable.  Not sure how they felt when they experienced it coming from the direction they wished to go!  But we’re sure to catch up with them again someplace later this summer – or failing that maybe next year in the Caribbean.  Way to go, eh?

 

I hear Liverpool are again representing the UK in soccers EUAFA cup by playing Milan tonight in Athens.  So it’s early evening eating for me, and off solo to a local bar with a sexy seductive wide screen TV.  Sues not into soccer.

 

Then of course to bed pronto - as our taxis booked to pick us up a 4.45 am to catch the 5.30 ferry.  All very exciting.

 

Take Care

 

JOHN and SUE

 

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