Got a bit too much sun yesterday, covering the 35 miles from Kos to the more northerly island of Leros in the Dodecanese group.

We’d decided to get a far north as possible in this island group – whilst we can.  Normally at this time of year you get strong north westerly Meltemi winds during daylight hours but we’ve not seen one for over a week.  As Santorini in the adjacent Cyclades group of islands (where we pick up Jude and Viv in a weeks time) but westward, if we can get some northing whilst the winds are light, the logic is when the Meltemi returns we can use that to slide back down westward towards Santorini.

Anyway, they’ve been forecasting southerlies for nearly a week now which would make getting north even better, but it’s tended to be light north east or north west most days. 

Had a boozy time last night on an adjacent boat – Meg – who had pulled in whilst we were away in Rhodes.  Americans Sue and Bob who we’d met last year on the EMYR and again two weeks back in Marmaris, were on top form. 

So we crept out of Kos over flat turquoise seas, with virtually no wind and under brilliant sun, around 1030.  Topped up with fuel, and started motoring north.

Just cleared the northern tip of Kos when the wind piped in but this time from the west, and we spent the rest of the day sailing to reach Leros around  1500. 

It really was one of those day sails you’ll remember for some time.  Sun high in the sky.  Swagman shouldering along under full sail.  Waves smashed over the foredeck, and a big white wake streaming out behind.  The wind got a solid 15/18 knots and Swagman leant over and powered along.  Pretty islands all around, just great.

We took turns at the helm and on sail trim to keep Swagman on her feet and moving at max speeds.  Kept her around high 7’s to low 8’s with the wind maybe 40 degrees apparent off the nose.  Even dropped the bimini as (a) it was too chilly in the shade with that force of the breeze and (b) we felt its windage was slowing us down!

South of Leros is the smaller mountainous island of Kalimnos rising stark from the Agean.  As we closed its eastern coastline and fell into it’s wind shadow, we dropped down to around 1.5 knots as the seas went all glassy.  Found it additional fun (well for me at least) as we glided between the patches of light breeze that dimpled the surface, and even Sue did not want to turn on the engine.

Silly what gives you pleasure, eh? 

I find when I’m sailing in near zero winds, trimming and helming oh so lightly to slide over one glassy area to get over to the next patch of breeze, that I get a real rush when we make it all happen.  Must be the complimentary  feeling (to charging along maxed out in a stiff breeze), but I love it when you go from drifting with nil noise, to hear that chuckle of water under the bow as the boat rockets up to a blistering 2.5 knots! 

By 1400 we’d cleared the top of Kalimnos, again picked up the strong westerly breeze funnelling twix the two islands, and finished off the run into Pandeli again at max speed.  Pandeli is a south facing village on the eastern coast of Leros, about half way up.

Leros is less harsh than its smaller sister island Kalimnos.  The hills seem more rounded and the countryside appears wooded and green.  Pandeli is a small fishing village with a tiny one wall harbour.  Too small for us as it was packed with villagers fishing boats, and the only space for visitors taken up by a raft of three charter yachts.  We anchored just off the harbour mouth, only 50 metres off the beach, in 8 metres of water. 

Good holding on a sand bottom, with the close shoreline / village headland protecting us from the westerly winds. 

The setting here is OK.  Not flash, in fact a regular working village not reliant yet on tourism.  A few houses and tavernas around the small beach and harbour, and then the village proper staggered up the hill behind towards the mandatory castle.  Nice.

Oleander, bourgainvillea and tamarisk grow profusely in the village, and even the piles of fishing nets being repaired on the small harbour wall were a jumble of blues, reds and yellows.  Most of the local fishing boats were equally colourful.

Towards dusk we were joined in our small anchorage by three other yachts – one of which we already knew.  Pom Graham and his Swedish girlfriend Karen met a year back on this very island, and she joined him as crew for the EMYR 07.  They’d spent the winter in Turkey and had been hanging out to revisit Leros and the nightclub / bar where they first met.

So yet again, a nice evening ashore with company, sharing their anniversary. 

Zorbas Tavern was just one of the shoreside tavernas, and they served us a good meal at good value.  Twenty seven euros including beer & wine, and only 50 metres from the back of our boat.

They took us for a nightcap to their meeting spot - Savannahs - just along the beach.  It is run by a couple of English guys who have only just opened for this summers season. Reunion drinks all round.

Typing this the morning after.  Woke at 0600 with the boat hobby horsing on small seas.  You’ll not believe it by that forecasted southerly has finally arrived and sods law, we find ourselves in a bay totally exposed to winds from that direction!

Once the other yachts clear out (just so they don’t foul our anchor chain), we’ll also move onward.  Probably only around to the western side of Leros and its big natural harbour of Lakki.  There shelter is assured even if this southerly builds (and it feels like it might).  We aim to spend at least a day exploring ashore before moving off westward towards Santorini and catching up with our UK mates.

Cheers

JOHN and SUE