The other three yachts were late risers despite the increasing swell from the southerly wind into the bay off Pandeli, but fortunately the wind swung for a while to the south west, making all the yachts swing also, and that gave us a chance to up anchor.  We took it and got out just in time, as ten minutes later the wind piped up another notch and the size of waves began to increase.

We bashed under engine into this southern wind, heading south around the bottom of Leros to the large west facing bay named Ormos Lakki which is on the western side of the island.  It’s the biggest natural harbour in the Agean and whilst it may have provided good protection to the Italian Fleet in the second world war, it is so large it did not appear to be providing the same level of protection for yacht of our size. 

The Greek Navy still maintain a big base along its southern shore. A destroyer was tied up alongside as we headed inward towards the town of Lakki, sitting at the head of the bay.

Lakki has both a scruffy marina / boatyard complex to its south side, and two concrete quays on the northern side tucked in behind the ferry berth.  As we approached these quays a marinaro was quick to start waving us into a slot twix two other yachts, and due to the building winds, we decided to take up his invitation. 

Fendered up, we slid in backwards, sorted out the slime line to moor our bow with two heavy ropes, and were soon tied up.

Weather not brilliant.  Overcast and cloudy.  The gusty south going south westerly winds coming through at F 5/6 was causing all the yachts to be snatched back / forth / sideways due to their south easterly orientation. Sorted paperwork and fees (21 euros per night but a staggering 5 euros per hour for wi-fi), and went for a walkabout in the town.

It might have been the weather, which by now included rain, but we both felt Lakki to be a sad and soulful place. 

Wide boulevards and big art deco buildings left over from the Italian occupation, and mostly in disrepair. But some of these left overs, like a wonderful avenue of tall eucalyptus trees, were still beautiful.  Seems after the war and the deprivations they suffered, many of the local inhabitants used the opportunity to emigrate to Canada, USA and Australia.  The post war authorities decided to use the deserted town and base a lot of Greek metal health institutions here.  Only a few still operate.  Apparently there was a big scandal due to generally poor treatment which came to the forefront in the 70’s, leading to many of these places shutting down.  But you can almost feel the pain of this place as we wandered the almost deserted streets, leaning against the wet wind and splashing in puddles as we went.

The winds had increased by late afternoon, so we ate on board and resorted to playing some DVDs on the computer.  We sat out a late night thunderstorm, and planned what tomorrow might bring.  The original idea of staying longer on this island and hiring a car / scooter was binned.  With solid southerlies still forecast for tomorrows Tuesday, and westerlies forecast for Wednesday, we’ve decided to leave early.  If we first use the southerlies to reach further westward to the Cycladean island of Amorgos, we could then use the westerlies to sail down to Santorini.

Awoke with the southerlies still in, but the rain and clouds all gone.  Got away by 0830 and were soon bolting along under full sail due west over the open and empty seas.  The 50 or so miles to Amogos went by quickly.  Boat surging along at around 7.5 knots with me hand steering most of the time, and Sue using the chance to trial cooking some bread down below.

Baking smelt great.  But not a success. We’re blaming it on the little oven. The sad little lump of almost raw dough was duly buried at sea about half way over.  It went with a heavy splash - not sure what the fishes will make of it.

Passed close by two small islands of Levitha and then Kinaros both standing stark and rocky from the sea.  The first has two families only as residents – the second only one fisherman.  Must be a lonely existence.

(shot of Kinaros)

By 1300 the imposing cliffs and what looked like a smoke stack of clouds pouring over Amorgos began to fill the horizon.  The cliffs at this NE end stand 300 metres high and drop off sheer to the sea.  The wind, now veering south west, pushes warm moist air onto the lower west side of the island, and as it is forced upward across the mountain it cools, condenses, and pours off the NE end just like smoke.

Two more hours along the top coast of Amorgos to finally turn back south east into the relative shelter of Ormos Katapola and the main town of Katapola itself.  It does have a town quay but backed by bars and restaurants, so we elected to stop at anchor in the bay.  Settled down closer to the small hamlet of Xilokeratidi (yes – you try saying it) in 8 metres of water.  Bit bumpy due to winds into the bay, but good holding.

Amorgos is the most eastern of the Cyclades apart from those two small islands we passed getting here.  Pretty mountainous throughout, highest being 821 metres.  Cliffs are as you’d expect, spectacular. They used this location for the filming of ‘The Big Blue’ and the name and its derivations has been adopted by several local establishments.  It’s way off the tourist trail but due to the film now attracts back packers and lots of small bars and pensions have cropped up to cater to that trade.  The town quay of Katapola fair bustles with small shops and bars, only just 10 metres across from small ferry boats loading and unloading, the expected fishing boats, and the few visiting yachts.

Pretty little port. 

We ate ashore but patronised a restaurant in Xilokeratide overlooking Swagman as she sat at anchor (32 euros incl wine).  Managed to secure the recipe for their eggplant and red pepper mezze (to die for), sunk a last glass or two of red whilst Filippa Giordano give us a good basting in the cockpit, and crashed out at 2230.

Cheers

JOHN and SUE