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Swagmans Sailing Blog

Swagmans Sailing Blog


Come on in and say hello via a 'comment'. We've cruised our Hanse 46' sailboat from UK to Egypt to the Caribbean mainly two handed from 2004 to 2008 - and enjoyed every minute. We are back temporarily in the UK - but sunshine beckons us again for next summer.

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7th May 2006 - Orhaniye to Gocek

Posted at 5:33 AM, Monday, May 8, 2006

We slipped our lines at 0600, just before dawn, to chug out of Orhaniyes inlet nursing a minor headache from the previous nights affair.  Sue helped stow fenders etc - then promptly went back to bed.

 

We followed a long line of yachts - now 50 participants in the rally  - strung out like a line of beads bobbing along in the half light before us. 

 

Todays leg is shaped like a big C, where we start at the top end of the C and end up 70 miles later at the bottom.  We started by going west south west backtracking over our inward course across Hisaronu Gulf, then due south across Yesilova Gulf leaving the Greek island of Simi to starboard (on our right side), and then turned east for a longish open leg of water with  Rhodos being left to our south, to finally turn northeast into the island studded bay where Gocek is beautifully located. 

 

The scenery (when we were close enough to view the shoreline) has been stunning.  Lots and lots of small Turkish islands set before craggy wooded hills with inside passages between them.

 

The sun was up and warm by the time we’d completed our first west  bound leg.  I'd hoisted the sails solo but ran with the engine still on.  It was 0900 by the time I turned south, and 1100 when we turned eastward and shaped up a long leg towards Gocek.  The winds until then had been fitful, light and flukey, so along with all others we had the motor ticking over.  Almost immediately after we had rounded the cape to turn eastward, the breeze began to fill in steadily from behind us.  It grew to 20 knots by midday and stayed that way all afternoon with the odd 25 knot gust.

 

The sea around us was filled with the now 50 paticipating yachts.  Everyone really pally and lots to shared photo taking as boats exchanged positions.  Some (like us) were sailing with spinnakers or gennekers, but many simply had a mainsail up and were motoring. A nice sight. 

 

We ran around the deck like loonies, enjoying the physical exercise of somehow going through all combinations of headsails several times.  It did mean we kept to our maximum boatspeed as we attempted to catch each yacht that appeared in front of us. 

 

Most others had departed earlier than us, as most were smaller and  slower.  The organisers had asked we all arrive before sunset - so some left as early as 2.30 am!

 

We used in rotation our ful main with either our regular jib headsail; the spinnaker; the code 0; back to the spinnaker; then the jib; then the code 0 again....…. 

 

A real workout under a hot sun, in stiff downwind breezes.  But the boat really trucked along with lots of spray and sun on the fordeck as we struggled to bring in and exchange sails.  It kind of reminded me of the old days, racing in very similar conditions off Fremantle.

 

It was 1600 and still blowing as we slid around the corner and finally into the wind free shelter of the Fethiye Gulf - where Gocek Marina sits nestled alongside Gocek town 5 miles up in the top corner.  This marina is run by the respected UK firm of Camper and Nicholson – and appears at first glance to be the best laid out / organised marina facility yet seen on the rally. 

 

Their marineros had some fun helping to park up the 50 rally yachts in the still stiff berreze, as of course all 50 yachts arrived within a one hour window!  But they managed well.

 

This gulf is also island studded nd very pretty.  It must be fed by a river or stream as we've got bullrushes growing on the marina banks.  I frankly did not expect Turkey to be as beautiful as it it has appeared from seaward – but each new place we visit seems to almost top the last.  Bodes well for the rest of the trip.

 

Another lay day today.  Another party tonight.  Then onward to our next destination where we anchor as opposed to going into a marina.

 

That should be fun.

 

JOHN


Untitled Comment

Posted by Anonymous at 8:23 AM, Monday, May 8, 2006

Hi, Sounds like fitness instead of sailing... Well Gocek is a nice town with a beautifull harbor (with some verry beautifull showers etc.). This if you are in the newest harbor. The other one is in front of the town Gocek. Also nice but the showers etc. are less.... but o.k. for sailors. Normally the wind starts at 11 and drops around 16.30 in that area so better keep it in mind when going for the next leg. Keep up the spirit! And show us some nice pictures.

Frank - eternal flame

Summary of the trip to date – a ladies view from Sue

Posted by swagman at 11:02 AM, Monday, May 8, 2006


We’ve been away over a month now and the time is just flying by. The trip from Palma to Turkey was great. We had all sorts of sailing conditions, motoring for two days, and then 50 knots of wind behind us. What a blast of a sail that was. I really feel that we are now sailing and using the boat as she was intended, rather than just motoring around from bay to bay. It was sad to say goodbye in Turkey to Marcus and Gerry, who apart from being first class on the boat, were great fun and kept us laughing for the two weeks. We went past some great places, all of which we intend to visit at leisure on our return trip next season. I think the highlight was sailing in a perfect breeze away from Sicily with Mount Etna puffing smoke in the background.

Istanbul was great, such an amazing city. They planted 3 million tulips in the city and the display was breathtaking. It was great to catch up with Savak and we went to her apartment for dinner and a rest before catching an overnight bus back to the coast. Great to visit someone’s home rather than eat in hotels.

The Rally

We are now in Gocek for a rest day. The fleet is now about 50 boats, too many to get to know all the people. I think it was better when we joined when we could talk to everyone and mix. What it is going to be like when there are 80 boats?? Turkey is the most beautiful country. Sailing here is a joy with proper breezes and lots of lovely islands to remember so we can explore them on the trip back next year. We’re hoping some of you will come and join us at various ports of call when we do that. The coastal country is very lush, all shades of green forested with pine and plane trees. It’s also great when we go out on trips to see the land being tended by the local farmers looking like they are from a bygone era. One great sight was a robed aged shepherd tending a flock of sheep on a hillside crook in one hand – but talking on his mobile with the other!

Bad news. I’ve been told that finding a washing machine in Turkish marinas is very unlikely, so I’ve been washing by hand. But the sheets are beginning to get a bit smelly - and even I draw the line at washing duvets and towels by hand. Nagged John so now next year we will get a generator and washing machine, which is go in the aft shower / toilet. But until then … on with the rubber gloves.

We also feel like rank amateurs in the cruising stakes, most of the people we’ve met have been around the world a couple of times or are live aboards who have been in the Med for the last few years. Everyone seems to know everyone – it’s another world.

Miss my family and my mates, and Rob tells me that my daffodils planted last autumn out the front looked absolutely stunning, but we are having a great time, enjoying the sailing, feeling we are now know the boat properly, have met some lovely people, and the weather is just great. My tan is coming on a treat.

No doubt you are following John’s daily reports, but hope you like my summary of the trip so far. The female perspective!

Love to all my friends and family, look forward to coming home in July and catching up with you all.

Sue

Untitled Comment

Posted by Kirsteen at 8:43 PM, Saturday, May 20, 2006

Sounds like a great experience. I'm looking forward to the next entry. Say "Hi" to KELEBEK if you come across them (mum and dad).


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